What do people experience, I just ruined the front two plugs (a very long winter layoff, a flat battery and a mate bumping me with full choke on..., bye bye spark plugs!! I really should know better).

So just for pub boredom knowledge, its common to only flood the front plugs or do people also ruin the rear ones only and/or all four.

I only tried ER9 and ER10 on the NC, on other bikes I worked on iridium plugs gave good milage and resisted fouling very good. What are you guys experiences with those?

Ronni

RonniB wrote:What do people experience, I just ruined the front two plugs (a very long winter layoff, a flat battery and a mate bumping me with full choke on..., bye bye spark plugs!! I really should know better).

So just for pub boredom knowledge, its common to only flood the front plugs or do people also ruin the rear ones only and/or all four.

I only tried ER9 and ER10 on the NC, on other bikes I worked on iridium plugs gave good milage and resisted fouling very good. What are you guys experiences with those?

Ronni

In all honested its the size i think thats the problem, as you say bigger plugs tend to last forever,

There are a few options i guess, convert to bigger plugs or maybe if posible fit NC24 heads,

RonniB, I have had fouled plugs too whilst not having my project NC35 started since my move to my new place. I parked it aside and covered all 100% technical checked and engine running. Last week I experienced flooded carbs, so I want to change this one with my spare set which is ultrasonic cleaned. Both the front plus rear plugs were all fouled, note that these were near brand new and only covered less than 150 kms!) So, now I have new ER9EH-IX iridium plugs ready, are not fitted yet as I am waiting on new float chamber gaskets to put on the carbs. On my street NC35 I have these iridium plugs used before, all good, very good milleage with good sparks.

porndoguk wrote:There are a few options i guess, convert to bigger plugs or maybe if posible fit NC24 heads,

You can drill out and tap the 30/35 heads for 10mm plugs

Had mine in for a good 2 years, no probs (fingers crossed!!!!)

Good to hear, I'm going to give the iridium plugs a try then. Really don't want to drill and tap the heads, since it's only the second set of plugs I've killed in 8 years of ownership. And there is tight enough between valves and plugs as it is..

how about flooding only front cylinders, my guess is that the slightly more downdraft nature of the front cylinders makes them more exposed to plug soaking. But I could be talking out my ars.

Ronni

RonniB wrote:Good to hear, I'm going to give the iridium plugs a try then. Really don't want to drill and tap the heads, since it's only the second set of plugs I've killed in 8 years of ownership. And there is tight enough between valves and plugs as it is..

how about flooding only front cylinders, my guess is that the slightly more downdraft nature of the front cylinders makes them more exposed to plug soaking. But I could be talking out my ars.

Ronni

I always found my rear was more prone to floading, could be down to differential jet sizes, or float heights.

I guess the calibration of the choke mechanism also could do something, but just guessing..

Last time, about 3 years ago, all four flooded and since I have one size bigger jets in the rear, I would've guessed they went first, but no.

It may seem like a small matter, but I'm trying to eliminate any future malfunctions, if changing spark plugs or even preheating coolant (its a track bike, so not really a hassle) can help I will look into it. The 6-8 Track weekends a year needs to be faultless ; )

I'm pretty sure every nc owner has experienced flooded plugs at one time or another, but there are certainly ways to minimise or eliminate it.

I always drained my carbs before shutting the track bike off (or turning fuel tap to 'off' and letting the engine die - this is in the hrc manual), that way there's always fresh fuel in the carbs next time you try to start it which can help it fire up if it doesn't get used often.

This is simple if you have the hrc fuel tap mod, because as soon as you connect the fuel line (if using a dry-break connector) gravity will put all new fuel in the carbs. If you don't have the hrc fuel tap mod then it takes ages when starting to get fuel in the empty carbs through the standard vacuum operated mechanism which is not good for the battery or starter motor.

I'm always careful too not to start it up and then turn it off before the engine heats up fully. Starting it for short periods can easily foul the plugs, and it may be next time you try to start it that you think you've fouled them.

RonniB wrote:The 6-8 Track weekends a year needs to be faultless ; )

I always kept a set of new plugs in my track spares!

I have NGK Iridium plugs ER9-EHIX or something like that in my 30.

Never had any flooding issues with the bike yet but it always starts up easily, even after draining the carbs, but I don't give it chance to flood.