I am finally getting around to finishing up my track bike project that I have been working on for about six years now! Hopefully the bike is rideable by the end of the day! I should call it the mail order bike!

Have you pictures?

Not really. I took a few today of the rearsets because I can't figure out why the brake lever is so low. It was an eventful day. I only have a few things left to do... but they are biggies.

Figure out why it won't start. I think there is a float sticking. I tried to find the vacuum nipple on the intake and it wasn't there! I even took off the carbs to get a better look. So to get the tap to work, I had to do the HRC mod. Now it leaks a little. Ok, so here is the list of things I have to do....

Wire in the clutch switch so I can start while in gear (I don't have this bit of harness, so will have to find one or make one)
Clean the carbs and change the oil (I can smell fuel in there)
Fix the rear wheel bearing. I can barely turn the wheel, and it isn't the brakes dragging.
Fix the low rear brake lever.

That should be about it besides some minor body work stuff like attach the windscreen! Here are some pics of the rearsets.

nice rearsets vfrman very trick looking indeed

on the hrc tap mod thing the track project i have has one also, although i have always turned tap off. whilst removing clutch casing yesterday to fit a better one got a strong smell of unleaded from engine on mine seems like the oil is contaminated with fuel but in my case maybe a bit to late top end has developed a rattle/noise now that will require further examiation cambox area but i suspect motor is now fucked as i ran it on the contaminated oil briefly unaware. wish i had swapped back to a vacuam tap now ouch...

is there any worthwhile reason other than flow rate for the tap mod seems to me there are more downsides if not careful. would get the oil changed and find cause of the flooding before running her up or you may find yourself in my situation.

Tap mod is for racing use.. to stop fuel being limited at WOT.

I wouldn't do it on an old road bike unelss you turn it off and you know your carbs are in good condition.. a leaking / weeping float seal will overflow with time.

Interesting rearsets are they for a different brand of rear master-cylinder?

The Koyo RS6 something bearing in the rear hub (the double one) thats expensive.. i think 65gbp from Honda can often be had for around half price or less from David Silvers as they had a cheap supply of them not long ago.. might be worth it if it's gone.

Needle roller is the same price abouts everywhere.

Somebody unscrewed the vaccum take-off from cylindes 3? Can you not remove the screw and put another one in there?

No, I think there was never a hole! I looked down the intake and it was smooth.

Go on, Steve! More pics please! Have been waiting for 6 years

I got the bike running well yesterday. It took a complete carb rebuild but it is done. Now I am having a weird electrical problem.

The bike will start and idle fine, it even revs great. While letting it idle the bike just died. When it happened I noticed the temp gauge needle pinned to the right. I don't have the temp sensor hooked up, so I have no idea wtf is going on. When I try to start the bike, it acts as if there is no spark.

Any ideas?