THIS IS FOR MY RVF... NOT VFR
I have had a look at the mod and reading the instructions over and over again
already i have ran into a couple of issues/pain in the arse.

firstly, the wiring from the switchgear to the harness doesn't join on the left hand side of engine like in the pics from V4source. the connection blocks are located in front of the air filter/under the tank. along with the 3 other connector blocks for various things. all are in one big protective hood. fiddly pain in the ass to get to
secondly, the guide explains that there are 2 connector blocks with 6 pin connectors in each. 5 of which are only used.... when i look at my 2 connector blocks. one is a red 3 pin connector block and one is a white 9 pin connector block. All of which are used..
does this sound correct so far?

can anyone tell me what colour wires i need to use to do the Mod? are all the wires coloured differently on either bike.
for a start, there is no red/black wire. Is it Blue/White on the RVF
Is Green still the earth

ok..looking again i can see that that one 9 pin and one 3 pin connector block is correct..
blue/white in the red 3pin block is the equivalent to red/black in the guide
green in the 9pin block is Earth

now the white wire..(god i'm sorry for going on but i'm confusing myself!)
Im unsure of what side i actually cut and what i actually connect to the relay...

edit...
do i cut the white wire on both side. coming from the switch AND the other side of the connector block(the harness side) that goes to the lights?
plug the white from the switch into the relay(86) and the soldered in white wire on the harness side of the wiring into the relay(87).

can anyone give me even the slightest hint as to what i do with the white wire? Please

I do not have a RVF to hand so cannot verify where connects are located and contain which coloured wires but using the haynes RVF diagram, black/red wire is power from the headlight fuse to your new relay. The white wire from the left switch block needs to be cut, with the switch end going to the new relay as the ON function. The other end of the white wire, which still goes to the headlights, needs to connect to the new relay. There needs to be a new wire from the new relay to chassis.

Which wire goes where on the relay depends on the relay type, have you got one. Can you post the pin functions.

Does this explanation help, is there something part I need to clarify.

Thanks Magg
I have worked out correctly which wires are the VFR equivalent..
RVF blue/white is the VFR's Black Red.. 30 on the relay
Green is same on both.. 85 on the relay
the white wire, as im reading it should be cut on both sides of the connector block.. Then as you say, plugging switchgear side white into the relay On. 86 on the relay
and the wiring harness side white(that goes to the headlights) plugs into the out on the relay.. 87 on the relay

does this sound correct in laymans terms..

Would not recommend you use blue/white wire, there is a black/red on the high beam relay that is a direct feed from the headlight fuse. The blue/white wire is the OEM power feed for the low beam always ON coming from the start switch. This switch is part of the "headlight bypass when starting function" and can burn out for the same reason. If you use the black/red wire as a power source then the start bypass switch will be subject to the full headlight load either.

Your other comments as to what goes where sounds correct.

Does my explanation make sense. If not tell me so and I will try to clarify.

thanks for the reply. as there is no red/black wire on either connector block, i guess i will have to run a wire to power the relay.
where would you say i should add this wire? from the point where the original red/black goes into the high beam relay or run another wire from the fuse box?

Apologies if I mislead you, the black/red is a new wire not in any of the connector blocks. Either of the two locations you mention would be ok just depends on convenience. High-beam relay may be located closer to your new low-beam relay, thus making a short easy wire run.

My earlier e-mail had a typo that pretty much stuffed the meaning of main paragraph. Should have read "If you use the black/red wire as a power source then the start bypass switch will NOT be subject to the full headlight load either".

Hope this helps.

it helps a lot mate thanks...
at least one person was able to offer some advice! :)

No problem, let me know how it goes.