okay, so im going to check my regulator, and on haynes manual it says to conenct +ve probe of the multimeter to the red/white wire. and connect -ve probe to the green wire on the regulator plug...so i connect the +ve to red/white and when i connect the -ve to green. out comes a spark and blows the main fuse along with one 10A and one 15A fuse...i dont know why its done that..could it be because the regulator plug was already melted before i did that? and that may be the cause of why none of the lights are working? hope someone could help me. im not that good with electronics. here is a picture of the regulator plug...



and what the hell is this? could someone tell me. its been wraped around with plenty electrical tape and other crap...still no idea what it is for.

I would say that because the rect/reg terminal block is stuffed that when you probed it your the terminals shorted and that is why the fuses blew. You need to fix the terminal block first and maybe some of the wiring. The other item is probably a non OEM turn indicator relay, at least that's were it would normally be.

hmm okay, i looked at regulators in ebay for like 10 pounds from china. i was wondering if they came with the cable aswell.. or is it just the regulator they sell.

No, you only get the rect/reg, no cable. Why do you want to replace the rect/reg, it could be ok just bad connections. Below is my bad attempt to provide a link to a post that has sources of the connect:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=29667

magg wrote:No, you only get the rect/reg, no cable. Why do you want to replace the rect/reg, it could be ok just bad connections. Below is my bad attempt to provide a link to a post that has sources of the connect:

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=29667

well i thought if my plug burnt out. then the regulator must of done it. so the regulator is probably broken aswell.. but il order a new plug etc and see how it goes.

Bad connections get hot and make even worse connections that get hotter and eventually melt the plastic connector body. Also results in low/no charging current to battery. Rect/reg could be ok, need wiring/connector fixed first and then test rect/reg for correct battery voltage while running.

hmm okay, il try that, thanks.

Was the meter set to Volts DC?

Did you plug the leads into the AMP socket in you meter by mistake? This means you are shorting out the reg/rec when you probe across.

If you are unsure of electrics try testing the battery 1st, when its disconnected from the bike. That way you know the meter is working A-OK.

Having worked in the electronics industry for years the most common cause of faults is people not knowing what they are doing. No offence meant but its easy to blow things up yourself.

oh no, i know i was doing it right. i know some electronics. i certianly know how to use a multimeter and how to test stuff. i just dont know why this happend. maybe all the wires in the socket are touching eachother and creating a short circuit...this is why none of my lights are working...thats my theory anyway.