Hi Guys!
Not been in for a while, but could do with some good advice ...
I'm doing a complete re-paint on an NC30.
Got brand new (oe style) fairing from Tyga. The tank, frt mudguard, seat panels are original to be flatted first.
I will also need to rub down/beed blast both wheels to paint, & prepare the swingarm & fork bottoms. Also may paint the rr undertray & some other bits & pieces.

I've found the paint I want & found a "helpful" paint supplier, but I worry that through all the helpful freindly advice I may get conned into paying too much and/or buying stuff I don't need.
Been quoted for 2k colour paint, thinners, etch primer, plastic isolator primer, high build primer, hardener, lacquer, gun-wash, scotch pads, panelwipe, abrasive paper (3 grades) - Total inc vat of £320 ( thats 2 ltrs basecoat & enough of everything else to do the whole paintjob).

1. Is this a reasonable price for good quality stuff?
2. It seems to me I can buy much of the above a lot cheaper on Fleebay, but have heard stories about bad reactions if different paint brands are mixed ??
3. The paint shop only quoted for 2k - is this the best option or would cellolose be better ( never sprayed with a gun before. but had some good results with rattle cans ) ??? ....... the painting will be done in a dust-free workspace but at ambient temp & atmos conditions
4. With 2pak would I really need a breathable air supply or would a filtered mask be ok ???

TIA for any good advice thats forthcoming,

Blue,

to be honest iv just re painted my bike, sanded down paint sand paint sand paint cur paint cut paint then more paint left for a week then moped just with a areosol can total cost was about £1000 that included painting the wheels and forks with the origional colores, its taken 2 months to do as i wanted a perfect job (in the bike shed) its all about prep and time taken but for £2k i could get my car repainted for that
have a look at this thread for finished but minus the decals
http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=434625
regards mark

Sounds like a good price to me so long as its good stuff. cheap thinners will give a poor finish from the gun and will mean it needs more finishing to make good. might be worth thinking about celly if u don't have breathing gear as 2k contains cyanide and other nasties that will kill you.

I've painted a few cars in celly from one of the big ebay paint suppliers and its good stuff. think its called juwel paint supplies off the top of my head. hope this helps :)

Once you know what your after try this place: http://auto-paint.co.uk/carpaint/

Ive used them a number of time for resprays on cars and bikes. Good quality service and always been a good colour match.

Or there is http://www.autopaintsbrighton.co.uk/ not used them myself but as Mark may remember there was a professional sprayer on the MG-rover site that would always recommend it.

for my paint i get it mixed at a company called Paint store in leamington spa
they supply all the spray shops in the area and also will colour match faded paint
last time i whent in with forks (gunmetal) the whent through so many paint cards to match but we got the correct one in the end
me personaly i like celulose 2 pack is a pain

also withcelulose you can mix clear lacker and base coat to give a beter shine also scratches dont show up so mutch

Thanks for the replies.

TBH I'm no closer to knowing whats best to do. Almost every second day someone gives a different opinion of which paint method is best, and it seems to me that as long as the prep is all done properly there isn't much difference between rattle cans, cell & 2k.

Gixermarco: your bike looks fabulous - just hope mine's as good when done.
Here's a couple of pics of what the bike should look like.
The race team have agreed to do the vinyl for me too - as a one-off replica special.

http://www.gbmoto.com/mambots/content/p ... quality=80

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak ... 1232_s.jpg