Hey Guys,

I'm looking for some advice on rearsets. I had a set of TYGA rearsets fitted to my race bike, but in a crash earlier, the whole bracket and gear shift folded in on itself like it was made of soft-ish alloy. Apart from that I have been super happy with these rearsets and was about to order another set, but thought maybe check if there is something else out there that may fair a little better in a crash?

I know the subject of crashing is pretty subjective as they are all different. However, I had a set of Gilles on my old 675 racebike and lowsiding that bike at about double the speed of today, simply ground down the peg and shift tip, but was still rideable.

Cheers
Luke

I reckon solid billet SES types would be the one for me.

Saying that, why not contact Tyga (Tyga Paul is on here) and ask about some racer strength bits or spares, discounted, to carry on using the product??

My personal opinion after seeing the TYga rearsets is that they are closer to pretty than sturdy

i have brandnew foot pegs and toe pegs for sale, id like £40 including P&P
i bought some SES bits and thats what they cost me, the footpegs and toe pegs from tyga are £60 delivered.

tyga do sell spares luke,

http://tyga-performance.com/site/index. ... =72_83_151

Yeah, I costed up the price of replacement and it would only be another $40 for a whole new set! I figured it would be worth spending the extra for the spares.

I'll check out SES. I had a lockstop brace from them on my 675 and was pretty pleased with how it stood up

Interesting thread. We can of course make the components sturdier but to be honest, they are not designed to stand up to a crash but rather to absorb it like a crumple zone. The force has to give somewhere and if the hanger and peg doesn't give, the next thing is the frame lug which is a major headache when that snaps or bends.

We sell spares for all our kits and they are not that expensive. If you are racing, it is wise to buy some spares at the time of purchase and save on shipping costs.

The NC30 is sturdy so might take more punishment, and it is a case of getting the balance right between strength and absorbing energy. Maybe we could go a bit stiffer and still be within the limits.

I am not sure if it relevant, but the accident damaged MC28 NSR20s (Pro Arm models) that I bought from Japan a decade ago (we are talking several dozen over a few years) nearly always had snapped off stock Honda hangers on the right but hardly ever on the left. It seems the hanger is the only thing on this side which takes the force of the crash with no swing arm to bounce off. Like I say, this is just an observation and theory but it does seem the right side takes a hammering when these pro arm bikes go down. If your crash was on the left, then obviously this is irrelevant...

Making stiffer components, all depends on demand...

tygapaul wrote:Interesting thread. We can of course make the components sturdier but to be honest, they are not designed to stand up to a crash but rather to absorb it like a crumple zone. The force has to give somewhere and if the hanger and peg doesn't give, the next thing is the frame lug which is a major headache when that snaps or bends.

We sell spares for all our kits and they are not that expensive. If you are racing, it is wise to buy some spares at the time of purchase and save on shipping costs.

The NC30 is sturdy so might take more punishment, and it is a case of getting the balance right between strength and absorbing energy. Maybe we could go a bit stiffer and still be within the limits.

I am not sure if it relevant, but the accident damaged MC28 NSR20s (Pro Arm models) that I bought from Japan a decade ago (we are talking several dozen over a few years) nearly always had snapped off stock Honda hangers on the right but hardly ever on the left. It seems the hanger is the only thing on this side which takes the force of the crash with no swing arm to bounce off. Like I say, this is just an observation and theory but it does seem the right side takes a hammering when these pro arm bikes go down. If your crash was on the left, then obviously this is irrelevant...

Making stiffer components, all depends on demand...

Hi Paul,

I agree, rearsets are a consumable item. Is it possible to go further in this direction by using folding pegs and gear and brake lever ends? With the pegs folding up and the gear and brake folding back (similar to on a dirt bike).

I think your rearsets are pretty good. A few improvments in my opinion would be:
- Folding as listed above. ( i have a design idea that I can share with you if you like)
- Pegs a little shorter ( I think they are about 15mm too long)
- Gear changer seems to be offset more than is required, i belive a similar ofset to the brake would still work but enable the riders foot to be closer the the frame and thus a better riding position.


I am interested to hear your thouhts.

Cheers,

im pretty sure you cant have folding peg in racing?

have you ever slipped of your foot peg over a dip in the road i have and trying you get you foot back on when you panic is a little worrying so a fixed peg you tend to not get that problem,

i love the tyga rears sets they look great,

but maybe the CNC grooves could be ditched on future ones to offer a little more strength?

also need to sort my gear shift of yesterday was mt first real trial and it was a bitch to select gears and to get into neutral i know the 30 is a bitch to get neutral anyway but this was worse!

porndoguk wrote:im pretty sure you cant have folding peg in racing?

have you ever slipped of your foot peg over a dip in the road i have and trying you get you foot back on when you panic is a little worrying so a fixed peg you tend to not get that problem,

i love the tyga rears sets they look great,

but maybe the CNC grooves could be ditched on future ones to offer a little more strength?

also need to sort my gear shift of yesterday was mt first real trial and it was a bitch to select gears and to get into neutral i know the 30 is a bitch to get neutral anyway but this was worse!

Slipping off the peg is not caused by folding pegs, and you would always have he peg spring loaded.

A folding peg and folding gear lever in racing can be seen here: http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com ... udio-7.jpg

999Gomerz wrote:

porndoguk wrote:im pretty sure you cant have folding peg in racing?

have you ever slipped of your foot peg over a dip in the road i have and trying you get you foot back on when you panic is a little worrying so a fixed peg you tend to not get that problem,

i love the tyga rears sets they look great,

but maybe the CNC grooves could be ditched on future ones to offer a little more strength?

also need to sort my gear shift of yesterday was mt first real trial and it was a bitch to select gears and to get into neutral i know the 30 is a bitch to get neutral anyway but this was worse!

Slipping off the peg is not caused by folding pegs, and you would always have he peg spring loaded.

A folding peg and folding gear lever in racing can be seen here: http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog.com ... udio-7.jpg

I Like Them :D

i didnt mean the peg is the cause you would slip off, the dip in the road is, but when your panicking to find it at speed (Racing) i can see a folding peg confusing you, either way i prefer folding ones, but there not an option on my rearsets