I am after some advise on my rear hub/bearings

the wheel is very stiff and there is no free spin, it turns by hand but as soon as i take my hand off, it stops.
there is no play in the wheel when i grip it top and bottom or left and right and try to shake it. there's no grinding noise when it turns.
The brakes arent binding as it is the same with the caliper removed.

Is there a possibilty of it being the chain? i know i can remove it to check, but when i put it back on, is it just a case of counting the links top and bottom to make sure its on equally?

obviously if it's the hub/bearings. could someone list exactly all the parts i will need to rebuild and refit. needle bearings, radial bearings, seals, 38mm Locknut? etc??

you sure it is not the brake?

Is this on a stand?

It's on an abba stand. and it was the same when i removed the rear caliper

You'll just have to be methodical then - there is no harm is stripping the hub out and cleaning it all while you have the chance.

46mm socket and circlip pliers and you are sorted in half an hour.

Get it all clean and you can have a look at the bearings and grease them if you think they want it. Well worth doing a hub strip at least once a year I find.. You'll be amazed at the amount of shit in the swinger if it has never been done before!

what the best thing to clean it with? also, how do i tell if the bearings are shagged or just in need of greasing? im assuming as there is no grinding noise, it just may be dry as abone in there??

and when i remove the chain off the sprocket, is it a case of just counting the amount of links top and bottom to make sure their equal in number when puttin it back over the sprocket?

If the cartridge type ball bearings are no good, they will feel like no-good bearings
If the needle cage bearing is no good, you will know just by looking at it. Either it looks new with clean grease in it, or it looks wrecked with rust coloured dried out grease in it, which is my guess to what has happened. If I'm right, you are lucky it hasn't grenaded on you. In this case it may or may not develop play at all before grenading.

How do you mean about the chain? The chain will put some resistance on from its weight, but not much unless its severely over tightened.

i did read in one of the threads (during a search of rear hub) that the chain could cause a tightening of the wheel turning. mine is definitley not overtight.

Q1. once i have the hub off, what do i clean the inside of it with?
Q2. when i take the chain off the sprocket, i gather it has to be of equal length top and bottom when put back on.. is it a simple case of counting the links to make sure it's even stevens?
Q3. would it better replacing both sets of bearings rather than trying to clean them up? if so, are there any other bits i need to get and do at the same time

Thanks for all the advice guys

Q1. once i have the hub off, what do i clean the inside of it with?

A:parafin and a dremel with a nylon brush in a saucepan, bowl etc.

Q2. when i take the chain off the sprocket, i gather it has to be of equal length top and bottom when put back on.. is it a simple case of counting the links to make sure it's even stevens?

A:? dont quite understand the Q. but ill answer to what i think you mean
A:no just put the chain on and tension appripiatly

Q3. would it better replacing both sets of bearings rather than trying to clean them up? if so, are there any other bits i need to get and do at the same time

A:cheaper to get a second hand hub, the bearings are extremely expensive about £60 for one of the bearing if i recall, i planned on changing mine till i saw the price of the needle roller, just pack the mother out with fuck loads of LM Grease if they look and feel ok other wise buy another hub.

Rick

Thanks Ricky
i may not have explained myself properly regarding the chain

the bearings dont seem too bad from DS... 25 and 29 pound (im assuming im looking at the right parts )

This might help a little to explain.

http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr400r3-199 ... _1300.html