Removing half the exhaust
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 11:58 am
I'll try to keep this short, but that won't happen.
Exhaust has cracked in two places; on the Y shaped piece before the can and in front of the back wheel on the pipe closest to the engine. Took it to a welders, welded the Y shaped piece, but we think it may of cracked round where the swingarm is in the way. Tried to weld #2, overflow pipes came in to play and chucked fuel everywhere when we leant the bike over. Because of this and the fact may of cracked where the swingarm is next to it, it needs to come off.
Quick note; I'm no mechanic. I've changed bulbs, fixed small electric problem, changed fairings and changed some radiator hoses on my dads Jag - that's about it - but I love learning and getting my hands dirty.
I don't need the front half off, it hasn't cracked and I don't think it's blowing - the crack is quite big on the rear half, can hear the air coming out easily, makes popping noises.
I've been looking for a while, I know that a short pipe section comes from the rear cylinders (stubby pipe? manifold?) and then the exhaust downpipes bolt on. I think I could reach this bolt if the mudguard and heatshield wasn't in the way. So this is what I think would work;
1. Remove rear fairings.
2. Remove right hand footpegs + heat shield (done this before to replace heat shield with none-rusted one).
3. Disconnect coolant and brake fluid tank from subframe along with suspension remote canister thingy. Unbolt exhaust can hanger, prop up the can on something.
4. Disconnect the many electricals going to the subframe.
5. Remove subframe (which takes the mudflap etc out of the way)
6. Rub bolts with wire brush + cover in WD40 + leave overnight??
7. Unbolt exhaust (much swearing at rust, rounded bolts etc)
8. Pull the pipes out of the two pipes under the bike that come from the front cylinder (am I right assuming these just pull apart? :S)
9. Voila.
Reverse = Reinstallation.
That's my guess at what needs to happen. It would probably be easier if I could remove the rear wheel. I have a paddock stand for the rear, but no 36mm socket or breaker bar.
Someone mentioned I'd need a new gasket for where the (stubby bit? manifold?) meets the downpipes, and some copper slip for the bolts.
Any help extremely welcomed, I'd like to get this done this week sometime.
Cheers,
Dan
Exhaust has cracked in two places; on the Y shaped piece before the can and in front of the back wheel on the pipe closest to the engine. Took it to a welders, welded the Y shaped piece, but we think it may of cracked round where the swingarm is in the way. Tried to weld #2, overflow pipes came in to play and chucked fuel everywhere when we leant the bike over. Because of this and the fact may of cracked where the swingarm is next to it, it needs to come off.
Quick note; I'm no mechanic. I've changed bulbs, fixed small electric problem, changed fairings and changed some radiator hoses on my dads Jag - that's about it - but I love learning and getting my hands dirty.
I don't need the front half off, it hasn't cracked and I don't think it's blowing - the crack is quite big on the rear half, can hear the air coming out easily, makes popping noises.
I've been looking for a while, I know that a short pipe section comes from the rear cylinders (stubby pipe? manifold?) and then the exhaust downpipes bolt on. I think I could reach this bolt if the mudguard and heatshield wasn't in the way. So this is what I think would work;
1. Remove rear fairings.
2. Remove right hand footpegs + heat shield (done this before to replace heat shield with none-rusted one).
3. Disconnect coolant and brake fluid tank from subframe along with suspension remote canister thingy. Unbolt exhaust can hanger, prop up the can on something.
4. Disconnect the many electricals going to the subframe.
5. Remove subframe (which takes the mudflap etc out of the way)
6. Rub bolts with wire brush + cover in WD40 + leave overnight??
7. Unbolt exhaust (much swearing at rust, rounded bolts etc)
8. Pull the pipes out of the two pipes under the bike that come from the front cylinder (am I right assuming these just pull apart? :S)
9. Voila.
Reverse = Reinstallation.
That's my guess at what needs to happen. It would probably be easier if I could remove the rear wheel. I have a paddock stand for the rear, but no 36mm socket or breaker bar.
Someone mentioned I'd need a new gasket for where the (stubby bit? manifold?) meets the downpipes, and some copper slip for the bolts.
Any help extremely welcomed, I'd like to get this done this week sometime.
Cheers,
Dan