My question is, can anybody tell me the length of hose needed for the rear brake if i wanted to run through the swinging arm and where could i get one made up? It's just something i'd like to do to the bike after seeing a few bikes on here that have had the mod done as it looks a lot neater and i want to take the chain guard off.

i just run the standard Goodridge rear hose as per the set i originally got off ebay.











be carefull where you drill the holes buddy if you drill the rear beyond the lump youll be drilling into the hub carrier.

id also advise if you do it, one, run a hose inside with the brake hose inside that for protection and so you can still adjust and move about if you use expanding foam to prevent dirt, dust, water, and gravel and stones entering the swing arm.

youll see in the pics with the clear hose then cut to length.

youll need to drill a 20mm for prefixed crimped goodridge hoses or less/smaller hole for make it your self hoses, i can supply you 20mm rubber grommits if you need them free of charge just cover P&P.

Rick

cheapest on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Goodridge-Braided ... 45ee49aa2f

£56.16

i was trying to sell a set earlier last year, brand new carbon colour for £35 inc P&P. i couldnt give them away! no one wanted them then wang wang had them from me.

good luck dudey

Thanks Rick good info matey. It'll make it a lot easier now especially with the pics you posted and hose spec.
Cheers fella

porndoguk wrote:cheapest on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Goodridge-Braided ... 45ee49aa2f

£56.16

i was trying to sell a set earlier last year, brand new carbon colour for £35 inc P&P. i couldnt give them away! no one wanted them then wang wang had them from me.

good luck dudey

Go to http://www.helmobile.com/index.asp and quote promo code "Forum" before 1st April and he'll do you a set of 3 for £58+post... but that's with stainless ends, which you DO want. Brake hoses is very much a thing where if you buy cheap, you'll either regret it forever after 6 months when the zinc "goes off", or you'll have to buy twice.

Liking the pictures above. But, after my SSSA 955i, I can see that that will be a PITA to bleed. Anywhere where you have up-down-up creates a place for air to hide. Only way to do it reliably is a vacuum bleeder. Otherwise pump the pistons as far out as you dare, then QUICKLY squeeze them in, expelling air up through the master cylinder.

Do you think rubber lined alloy p clips drilled,tapped and bolted into the frame is a better option? It'll still look neat but not quite as trick.

beemerbitz wrote:Do you think rubber lined alloy p clips drilled,tapped and bolted into the frame is a better option? It'll still look neat but not quite as trick.

I think you have no choice but to put the line through the swingarm - how could you not do it, when it looks so cool?

Just be aware you'l have a pig of a job getting it bled up nice, is all. It might even be worth screwing it together, riding to the bike shop with only the front working, and sticking them a few quid to vacuum bleed it for you.

its not that bad to bled done it twice now, when first fitte about 6 months ago, and then on tuesday took about 30mins,

i use a syringe on the bleed nipple,

with the nipple shut draw the syringe out then open the nipple close nipple.
repeat
with the nipple shut draw the syringe out then open the nipple close nipple.
repeat
with the nipple shut draw the syringe out then open the nipple close nipple.
repeat
with the nipple shut draw the syringe out then open the nipple close nipple.
repeat
with the nipple shut draw the syringe out then open the nipple close nipple.

you get the idea, do that about 10 times, to creat a vacuum and pump the lever aboiut 5 times with the nipple the closed, then open it slightly, the easiest way to do it is get the bike on the paddock stand back wheel off and get in between the swing arm and brake pedal,

when youve done leave a heavy weight off the pedal, ive currently got a massive tub of tile adhesive hanging off the pedal whilst i wait for the new brake fluid as i have bleed them through with filtered 6month old dot 4.

filtered by which i mean when i bleed the brake i reuse the bled fluid by pooring it into a funnel with a piece of kitchen roll in to filter any dirt and dust and then reuse for bleeding. as soon as my new just come then i can fully bleed through completely air free.

which leads me to my question.

Q:how much fluid is there in the rear and front caliper and hoses?

so i know when to stop bleeding/flushing through the new stuff.

amorti wrote:

beemerbitz wrote:Do you think rubber lined alloy p clips drilled,tapped and bolted into the frame is a better option? It'll still look neat but not quite as trick.

I think you have no choice but to put the line through the swingarm - how could you not do it, when it looks so cool?

Just be aware you'l have a pig of a job getting it bled up nice, is all. It might even be worth screwing it together, riding to the bike shop with only the front working, and sticking them a few quid to vacuum bleed it for you.

HAHA

the back brake is shit any way so wouldnt make any difference :)

I really like the look of the line through the swinger, so i'm going to go with it. the way you describe bleeding the brakes Rick sounds like the way i do my mountain bike brakes. Basically you open the bleed nipple on the caliper, push the syringe to pressurise the fluid and withdraw the end to release the air which gets trapped in the top of the syringe. Then fit another syringe to the cylinder and open the nipple. Push fluid through the hose from the caliper and into the syringe on the cylinder. Tighten the nipple on the caliper, then pressurise the fluid at the cylinder end and withdraw the air from here.Tighten the nipple and job done.