right my swingarm is a day away from finally being installed.

i have it as this,

2 ball bearing's, a circlip & seal on the RHS
1 Needle Roller Bearing & seal on the LHS

the needle bearing in pressed in 4.3mm
and i have slide the 6inch* tube in from the LHS, then placed the top hat looking spacer that sits out a few about 2mm from the needle/LHS seal

Q1 - is this correct? the 2mm gap from the seal and top hat?

then when i put the swingarm in i put the pivot rod/bolt through with the threaded adjustor which slides on to the hex groves, the special tool that the haynes show is different and the torque settings are for that type of tool,




Q2a - what the torque settings when using the socket version that sits ontop of the locknut?
as the haynes manual specifically states

Note: the specified torque setting takes into account the extra leverage provided by the service tool and cannot be duplicated without it

Q2b - the haynes manual also says that you have to use an allen key to counter hold the pivot bolt whilst tightening the lock nut with the above honda swingarm service tool, but with the socket type, i obviously cant counter hold with an allen key due to the socket being over it.

what are the work arounds and torque settings this way your advice is very much apprieciated.

Thanks for your help Rick

*Aprox

To be honest mate I've never stripped the bearings out the swingarm so can't really help you there mate, I usually just refer the parts diagrams and read instructions over if I can't stuck. If that fails walk away for 5 mins lol

as for remasembly i do remember what your describing but I'd have to go take a look at my bike to offer you any help, I might escape out to the workshop in a bit as the misses is watching some celeb shite on tv.

im more interested in the torque as i dont want to fook it up especially with the efforts and expence been spared for this project!

cheers T

Rick

Im sure i never had to hold to allen bolt to torque the locking nut up. Its been a while since ive done one but dont you tighten the allen bolt first then when you do the locking nut it shouldnt move???

Anyway pics of the swingarm mate, youve had it done black havent you?

no i went for satin silver!

pics are coming shortly

Bingo

Swingarm - The money shot

When I did mine I torqued the adjuster sleeve thing to whatever the haynes manual said (using a 14mm allen key in the end of the shaft), then torqued the castellated locknut to about 2/3 of what the book said.

As far as I can tell the critical torque setting is the one applied when installing the sleeve via the pivot bolt as that's what controls the tension across the frame. The castellated nut is just a locknut to stop the sleeve moving so as long as you don't strip it it should be ok.. if you're worried then under-torque it but use threadlock.

spanky wrote:When I did mine I torqued the adjuster sleeve thing to whatever the haynes manual said (using a 14mm allen key in the end of the shaft), then torqued the castellated locknut to about 2/3 of what the book said.

As far as I can tell the critical torque setting is the one applied when installing the sleeve via the pivot bolt as that's what controls the tension across the frame. The castellated nut is just a locknut to stop the sleeve moving so as long as you don't strip it it should be ok.. if you're worried then under-torque it but use threadlock.

cheers mate good points made there, im a panic man when it come to critical torque areas im not in the habit of wating to change bearings twice, understandable at least. but yeah ill do as above, tomorrow evening all being well,

had a medical emergency with the pooch tonight, shes had to be choped up to find a sweetcorn cob stuck in her small intestine where shes got it from ill never know becase we havent had sweetcorn since the summer!