I've read through a lot of the threads on this topic but would welcome any views on the best upgrade for this particular situation.

I have an NC23 that I use everyday to commute in and out of London, about a 40 mile round trip. The nc23 in standard trim is great as it's light, nimble through traffic and pretty good on fuel, but the front end really lets it down. I have new pads, discs, braided lines and it just doesn't stop + the forks are too soft even with me weighing 10 stone. I have halved the air gap on 10w oil but still on standard springs and inserts.

As I know many of you have tried all sorts of transplants and upgrades I wondered what your opinion would be on the best solution for upgrading the braking and damping for a nc23 commuter? - will be a winter project so no rush to solve it overnight.

Thanks all!

C

Graeme France does a fork spring upgrade for the NC23 you could try that for the forks.You could also swap the fork bottoms for NC30 ones I think then fit either NC30 calipers or buy the mounting bracket from rick oliver to fit sp1 calipers with the NC30 fork bottoms

If you go the nc30 fork bottoms and sp1 caliper route do you keep the nc23 front wheel and discs?

Cheers

C

c7ll wrote:If you go the nc30 fork bottoms and sp1 caliper route do you keep the nc23 front wheel and discs?

Cheers

C

Yes

I've put NC30 lowers and calipers on my 23 along with NC30 master cylinder, and braided lines. GFrance refurbed the calipers for me, and had the lines made up to the right length with the correct ends. I prefered this set up, but according to GF the standard 23 set up is better. I'd speak to him if I were you he's a mine of info, and what he doesn't know about setting up 23's and 29's aint worth knowing.
I take it you've made sure you've bled the air out of the system?

wonderbot changing the fork watt and oil height is really only masking the problem of having cheap forks with a blanket setting for the masses supplied from factory.

The best you can do if you want to keep the std fork look is invest in a set of gold-valve emulators and a professional set up. It may cost a bit more then a spring and oil change but in the long run you are only going to do it once. And it will be correct from the get go.

For braking I have found the best is some good coarse brake pads ie. Brembo's carbon ceramic have a really good initial bite. Plus the don't have to be keep up to temp which is handy when commuting. Plus any company's braided lines but the biggest improve ment is a newer/larger master cylinder.