After the jobs as stated in....

http://www.400greybike.cc/newforum/view ... =24&t=1891

The bike is alot quicker and now when i launch it the front end seems to get pretty light. The bars shake alot more than they used to. Not loads but enough to be noticeable. Has anyone noticed this on their NC30? Maybe those who have added a few power up mods could answer this?

One thing i did think about was that I did re-pack my headers whilst it was stripped down. I have since re-checked these and they have no slack or movement in them. Maybe if i was to tighten them a little more? I know this will increase the wear on the bearings but maybe its one option?

Anyone any thoughts?

fumb

If it's going so well now why bother?

Did you change the forks at all? why not pick the forks back up in the yokes if you dropped them...only a touch like.

I had a minger of a tankslapper last year that really shit me up - I had loose bearings so I nipped them up and it was great.

I love a good tank slapper.

If it aint slapping im slacking :D

Just laugh like a maniac and give it more beans

Psychosomatic88 wrote:I love a good tank slapper.

If it aint slapping im slacking :D

Just laugh like a maniac and give it more beans

Try that when it's doing a full lock to lock slapper and you're headed towards a parked car...

Druid

What the hell you want to do that for?? :D

Did you fit taper bearing head races, because that would make the difference. They require only around 2ft/lbs preload.

If ball cup and cone head race bearings are used, then torque to 36ft/lbs and hand tighten lock nut and fit tab lock washer.

This equates to a pull on the fork top to turn the forks lock to lock of 2.2 to 3.3 lbs pull.

Dave.

CMSMJ1 wrote:Did you change the forks at all? why not pick the forks back up in the yokes if you dropped them...only a touch like.

I had a minger of a tankslapper last year that really shit me up - I had loose bearings so I nipped them up and it was great.

Only about 4mm fork showing at the top on the yoke. So not much to sort out there really. I did upgrade my fork internals though.

arsey30 wrote:Did you fit taper bearing head races, because that would make the difference. They require only around 2ft/lbs preload.

If ball cup and cone head race bearings are used, then torque to 36ft/lbs and hand tighten lock nut and fit tab lock washer.

This equates to a pull on the fork top to turn the forks lock to lock of 2.2 to 3.3 lbs pull.

Dave.

They are standard bearings... just re-packed then with grease and re-assembled. Checked them after 50 miles for at movement but none.

fumb wrote:They are standard bearings... just re-packed then with grease and re-assembled. Checked them after 50 miles for at movement but none.

Did you torque them to 36ft/lbs?

I have run with 8ft/lbs for lighter steering, but at the expense of twitchyness, I now use 36ft/lbs.

the RC30 uses the same arrangement and I find 25ft/lbs a good compromise. If a steering damper is used, HRC recommend a figure of 11ft/lbs for racing, but I think you would get away with less, to give a better feel over ruts and road lines.

Dave.