The clutch on my my bike is slipping, not a massive amount but enough to irritate me! I've checked all the plates (all in spec) changed the outer friction plate for a full one and whilst it's betterit's still not right. Springs are all ok, so I'm thinking, does anyone do stiffer springs? If not, what about making some washers of a millimetre or so in thickness to go behind the springs?
Cheers,
Mike

We keep new heavy duty Tri Arm clutch springs in stock - £14 a set of 4.
UK carriage - £4

Paypal to gfracinguk@live.co.uk is quickest.

Plus new Honda clutch cover gaskets - genuine clutch plates and steels etc

They work!!





Cheers

Graeme, which bike of these ^^ bikes is faster and why??

Both beat the Kwaks and Yams on occasions with CB riding - however the NC29 was quicker - simply 5 more BHP.

Both ram air - both mag. wheels - both GF trick suspension - both 399cc tuned motors.

The 23 engine came from Shaun Webster (RS Performance) before he retired to the IOM.

Thank you Mr. Honda - Tri Arm was sold - its now going round and round Pembrey - NC29 was essentially destroyed at Cadwell's Mansfied corner in a monsoon wet race.

I still have its twin .... though.

Cheers

Graeme

hi there,

I have exactly the same problem with my nc23 race bike, it has recently started slipping, i replaced with ebc clutch and hd springs. Did one meet but by the last race started slippin again. I too have replaced the narrower clutch plate with full size one and removed ring for my last meeting but still it was slipping mainly for the first couple of laps then got better towards the end of race,probably when bike hot. its really fustrating cos iv had the clutch off so many times now and it still slips.

Is a standard ebc clutch upto the job or do i need to go for a set of race clutch plates and springs. The bike is using silkolene 10/40 oil

cheers rigs

Your answer lies in your third line ....

Plus have a very very good look at the inner basket for wear.

Hi guys, this seems like the place to ask,
I'm having a nightmare trying to get the clutch out of a knackered nc23 engine, I simply can't get the centre nut off, I've certainly buggered many things up internally now trying to do it but nevermind. I want to take the clutch off and check it to see if its any good to keep for spares and dismantle the engine entirely so I know exactly whats going on in there. I've removed a clutch from an engine before and it was no where near this much trouble, are there any tricks I'm missing?
I tried the engine in a frame with the back wheel locked, this caused something to sound like it snapped inside, and I've tried various other ideas all causing even more damage to the engine in one way or another.
The engine was cheap and is mainly for a learning aid so the damage is unimportant, but I am trying to salvage as many useful parts as I can.
Something I have noticed is the clutch springs are shorter, suggesting they are the stiffer type. Is it likely there will be different clutch plates to suit? (The guy who sold me the engine said it had an upgraded GF fitted clutch but was unsure of the spec)
Is it worth fitting the stiffer springs and possibly different plates to my road bike? Generally what are the pro's and con's in peoples experience?
I've ridden with 4 different 23 engines in various bikes, and almost all have given me the occasional false neutral or would rather go into neutral than 2nd. I found with the latest engine this problem doesn't happen if the oil level is kept topped up. All the engines were fairly high mileage I think, so I assume all have the same part worn out causing this. Does anyone know which selector part this may be, and how accessible it is to replace?
Sorry for the long post,
Thanks very much
Adrian

Just an update, I bought a set of stiffer springs off GF and guess what? Yep, no slip at all. Feels like I've got another 5 Horsepower!
I'm happy
Mike

Adrian,
If you can get an air wrench on it it'll be off in a second! Works for me.