Hi, first ride out, apart from bringing it hope, on my CBR 400 rr NC23. I have noticed that a few times at coming to a stop its just cut out, quite annoying as it caught me out a few times and wasnt able to start it before the tooting started behind me ! happened most when say the clutch was in and braking hard - eg emergency stop... but did also just happen sitting there at lights waiting to pull away.

Also - first - it seemed to struggle on start up, revving quite low, pulled choke out but it didnt seem to do anything, then after approx 10 - 15 seconds it started to rev higher, after trying to push the choke back in, which is really stiff and wouldnt go in all the way it was revving at about 1800 on tickover - is that a sign i need to mess about with the choke as it isnt going all the way in?

Whats the normal tickover on the nc23? so i have something to compare to.

I am new to all this so bear with me. I just know the thing shouldnt cut out so I have to get my hands dirty !

I would say the first place to start is a damn good clean of your carbs....

Well that told me !!

Just trying to source a haynes manual and I will then get on with it. I assume its not too much of a job and i can sort that choke cable out too as it took way too much force to pull it out.

as tanuki said mate give the carbs a good clean, check float levels make sure there is no dirt on float needles, make sure jets are clean.
for the sticking choke might of rusted inside the actual cables spray some wd40 down the cable and make sure its hooked up to the carbs properly, if the lever for the choke is stiff on the carbs give it a good clean.
As for the idle speed it should be 1300rpm +/- 100 according to haynes, mine idles at 1200 sweet.
They can be a bit of a pain to get right the nc23's, im guessing you havent done much with bikes before as you said you will need haynes manual, just make sure when you put the carbs back on that they are seated properly overwise you will just have to take them all off again which is a ball ache.

Any more advice just ask pal, and welcome to the forum.

Adam

thanks for the info - i have done bits and bobs on bikes and cars in the past not not scared to tackle it - haynes manual always gives a lot of detailed info tho so i dont want to go at it without it as a comfort blanket in case something goes wrong as i am not familiar with this bike at all.

Whatever holds the choke on the bars might have bent too, havent checked it properly, obviously i was pulling it way too hard as the choke cable wouldnt pull out, then when it did, wouldnt go back in.

yeah sounds like its either sticking or like you said could be bit bent at the bracket.
there is a haynes manual you can download, quicker and saves you money lol

Adam

I appreciate this may seem random but are you riding with your headlights on/running 55w headlight bulbs? Mine had trouble at lights & junctions etc, have reverted to standard and now ok... the pitiful alternator couldnt seem to run both the engine and lights at once, lol

I am riding with headlights on yes !! Maybe it could be that - as for what its running bulb wise I havent a clue but will have a check. Its a good shout but as it was running1800 on tickover you wouldnt expect it to cut out from a power draw like that - well thats what i think anyway !

my nc23 has just done exactly as described, put a new reg/rec on, changed bulbs to 35,s and hopefully thats cured it so far so good..ted

The standard bulbs are 35/60w Jap home market I4 bulbs, 60 deg spacing on the tabs instead of the normal H4 car type... the regulator produces like 92w so as long as you dont use your headlights, indicators and brake light all at once you will be fine!

More importantly your Hi/Lo switchgear will melt/fuse if you use the bigger bulbs? A major improvement would be a HID kit, still only pulling 35w but MUCH brighter! I will get round to buying and fitting one when it gets dark in the evenings again, at the moment I have the headlights taped up in a comedy style.

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n61/ ... C04069.jpg