freebie 3tj speedo restriction modification
Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:09 pm
okay freebie speedo de-restriction
as we know there is a metal disc in the back of the speedo that rotates as the speed increases. when you hit the magic number (about 112 mph) the disc blocks a sensor and introduces the restriction. You can't just unplug the sensor as the ecu looks for a signal at start up which clears as you accelerate and then kicks in again when you hit the number.
If it doesn't find the signal at start up it restricts you to 12500 rpm
there's various ways around it. (m-max box, gold speedo converter, modified ecu etc) I'll not go into the pros and cons here but these generally cost some pennies and/or are no longer available/ or are fairly hard to find.
This way only costs some time (unless you really balls it up although it's unlikely as it's really easy to do! )
whip the clocks off the bike and take the cluster face plate off. (held on by all the really obvious screws around the outside edge of the cluster)
there are four screws that hold the speedo in the main cluster. two of them also hold the speedo cable drive unit on the back of the clocks. Take these 4 screws off and remove the cable drive. Theres a rubber bung where the speedo sensor wires come out of the back of the clocks that also needs to be removed. Unscrew and remove the trip reset knob (turn it the opposite way to reseting it)
once you've done this the speedo should just drop straight out of the cluster. (I haven't bothered with photo's of these bits as it's really easy to do and completely obvious when you have the cluster in your hands.
now if you look in the back of the speedo you should see the following.

the offending metal disc is just behind the tip of the screwdriver.
I covered the miles tumblers up with a couple of layers of thick tape just in case I slipped and then used a dremmel to cut a portion of the disc away.

Give it a good blow through to get rid of all the metal dust so it doesn't cause any problems and voila!
In good old fashioned haynes manual style assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
put it all back together and enjoy ( responsibly within the confines of a racetrack/privately owned testing area ) your bike with it's increased maximum speed.
obviously you do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for you getting caught speeding, putting the screw driver through your hand, destroying your clocks or any of the miriad of others ways you could screw up if you are a complete giffer.
as we know there is a metal disc in the back of the speedo that rotates as the speed increases. when you hit the magic number (about 112 mph) the disc blocks a sensor and introduces the restriction. You can't just unplug the sensor as the ecu looks for a signal at start up which clears as you accelerate and then kicks in again when you hit the number.
If it doesn't find the signal at start up it restricts you to 12500 rpm

there's various ways around it. (m-max box, gold speedo converter, modified ecu etc) I'll not go into the pros and cons here but these generally cost some pennies and/or are no longer available/ or are fairly hard to find.
This way only costs some time (unless you really balls it up although it's unlikely as it's really easy to do! )
whip the clocks off the bike and take the cluster face plate off. (held on by all the really obvious screws around the outside edge of the cluster)
there are four screws that hold the speedo in the main cluster. two of them also hold the speedo cable drive unit on the back of the clocks. Take these 4 screws off and remove the cable drive. Theres a rubber bung where the speedo sensor wires come out of the back of the clocks that also needs to be removed. Unscrew and remove the trip reset knob (turn it the opposite way to reseting it)
once you've done this the speedo should just drop straight out of the cluster. (I haven't bothered with photo's of these bits as it's really easy to do and completely obvious when you have the cluster in your hands.
now if you look in the back of the speedo you should see the following.

the offending metal disc is just behind the tip of the screwdriver.
I covered the miles tumblers up with a couple of layers of thick tape just in case I slipped and then used a dremmel to cut a portion of the disc away.

Give it a good blow through to get rid of all the metal dust so it doesn't cause any problems and voila!
In good old fashioned haynes manual style assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
put it all back together and enjoy ( responsibly within the confines of a racetrack/privately owned testing area ) your bike with it's increased maximum speed.

obviously you do this at your own risk. I am not responsible for you getting caught speeding, putting the screw driver through your hand, destroying your clocks or any of the miriad of others ways you could screw up if you are a complete giffer.
