Hi i want to run a total loss system on my RVF but am unsure on how to do it. Can someone tell me what needs to be done

are you racing it?

ive been told its real easy on the CBR - so id very like to know if its just a simple on a NC30, as this is a great track day bike tweek - someone tell us the low down n dirty...

it helps a lot with weight and the throttle response, ive got a wiring diagram for the nc 35 so if anyone needs it just ask and i'll send it on, you'll dump the starter the alternator, reg/rec, all wiring with that,

im not racing it as such, its just a trackday bike so it will be on charge after every session.

I doubt i'll ever race it (im too slow :D ) but i wanna build it as a race bike, its already running a loom with no lights etc but still has the charging system.

What i need to know is what i need to get rid off and what if any wiring mods i need to make.

bumpin it might get tedious..especially on cold november Cadwell mornings....

why not go halfway as it is not a racebike anways?

Just lose the weight of the alternator and the charging system and keep a battery and the starter motor?

Take off the alternator cover, remove the flywheel, remove the stator from behind it.
Discard (or pack away in case of future use) the stator. Use a big blob of rtv or similar to block off the hole where the wires passed in.
Replace flywheel, replace alternator cover.

Remove reg/rec and enjoy, you don't need to modify the wiring at all but IIRC there is ~1Kg of wire that is not needed without lights etc.

Personally although our trackbike is total loss we're keeping the starter.

Druid

if you are track daying the bike put the flywheel back on. I have tested these bikes on dynos in many forms and have found a better curve on power is acheived using the rotor weight still on the crank it gives a smoother wider spread of power as said above just remove the charging coils and rectifier but i would just snip the wires off either side of the exit point on the engine as they leak sometimes no matter how much snot you fill in the hole.

but definatly there is no peek power gain just a more irractic power curve although the only noticable thing is the bike appears to rev a little more freely from low rpm with no load. just removing the charging coils will remove any drag they generate but there is nothing in it unless you are running a totaly all out motor that has its power pushed higher up. Tourqe is lost when the flywheel is removed.

thanks for the comments, i am intending to keep the starter as i dont wanna be bumping it all the time.

Bumping is the best lol

It keeps you fit if nothing else, sometimes on mine though i have to put the warmers on to get enough grip to start it lol