xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions

[xivlia]

hmm il think about it, need to speak with my parents first

[nc30chris]

one day this thread will be folk law!

[force-v4]

It is folk law!
People I speak to, that are non members, that just come on for a nose, ask me about it & if xivlia is for real, or just someone having a good laugh @ us all, seeing how much info & patients they can extract from us!

[iDemonix]

My offer of £50 and a bacon sandwich still stands.

[speedy231278]

If the fuel tap is set to off and fuel still flows, then it's buggered. Flowing on 'on' or 'res' with no vacuum applied is a sign that someone has done the HRC mod to it. It should still be off on 'off' regardless, and if it isn't, it means the seal in the tap has failed. The idea of the vacuum operated diaphragm is to stop this happening if the seal fails and the rider doesn't remember to switch the fuel tap off. The flip side is that if the diaphragm fails, the fuel gets cut off regardless, and you run out of fuel with a nearly full tank 1 1/2 miles from home with almost all of it uphill, he says from experience. I did the HRC mod probably 7 years ago, and religiously set the fuel off whenever the bike isn't running. It becomes second nature, and it's very rare I forget.

Unfortunately, if you have the right combination of failed seal or tap left open with the mod, plus a dodgy float and the valves set in just the right place, you'll end up completely filling the engine with petrol, as you've found out. So, the oil's ruined, the filter wants changing, and everything in the engine has now been coated in diluted oil. I'm not quite sure what the best way of making sure it's all gone is, but quite obviously you need to drop the contents of the sump out. Whether or not stuff gets trapped above the cylinders or not is something I'd not be sure about, I guess in theory if there is anything above them it should be able to escape through the piston ring gaps. I wonder if anything escaped into the exhaust? After draining, I'd take the plugs out and look into the cylinders to make sure they're empty, as if one is full of fluid when you try and crank the engine over (if the starter ever works! :p) then you'll be spending more money on engine internals....

Given that petrol will dilute oil, and that I'm extravagant, I'd be tempted to drain the current filter, get some cheap oil to fill the bike, and run the engine at idle for a while to make sure all the remnants of the oil/petrol gloop are mixed up with it, then drop the lot out, replace the filter and refill with decent stuff. I may be talking rubbish, but the idea of leaving any quantity of petrol in the engine would leave me paranoid about it affecting the new oil.....

[bikemonkey]

If the fuel tap is set to off and fuel still flows, then it's buggered. Flowing on 'on' or 'res' with no vacuum applied is a sign that someone has done the HRC mod to it. It should still be off on 'off' regardless, and if it isn't, it means the seal in the tap has failed. The idea of the vacuum operated diaphragm is to stop this happening if the seal fails and the rider doesn't remember to switch the fuel tap off. The flip side is that if the diaphragm fails, the fuel gets cut off regardless, and you run out of fuel with a nearly full tank 1 1/2 miles from home with almost all of it uphill, he says from experience. I did the HRC mod probably 7 years ago, and religiously set the fuel off whenever the bike isn't running. It becomes second nature, and it's very rare I forget.

Unfortunately, if you have the right combination of failed seal or tap left open with the mod, plus a dodgy float and the valves set in just the right place, you'll end up completely filling the engine with petrol, as you've found out. So, the oil's ruined, the filter wants changing, and everything in the engine has now been coated in diluted oil. I'm not quite sure what the best way of making sure it's all gone is, but quite obviously you need to drop the contents of the sump out. Whether or not stuff gets trapped above the cylinders or not is something I'd not be sure about, I guess in theory if there is anything above them it should be able to escape through the piston ring gaps. I wonder if anything escaped into the exhaust? After draining, I'd take the plugs out and look into the cylinders to make sure they're empty, as if one is full of fluid when you try and crank the engine over (if the starter ever works! :p) then you'll be spending more money on engine internals....

Given that petrol will dilute oil, and that I'm extravagant, I'd be tempted to drain the current filter, get some cheap oil to fill the bike, and run the engine at idle for a while to make sure all the remnants of the oil/petrol gloop are mixed up with it, then drop the lot out, replace the filter and refill with decent stuff. I may be talking rubbish, but the idea of leaving any quantity of petrol in the engine would leave me paranoid about it affecting the new oil.....

what he said, in a less precise way.....

[xivlia]

yeah, i will need to do that as soon as possible, as soon as my dad brings my tool set back! which will be a week from now. going to overhaul everything again. pop the carbs up, check the floats, check the jets, get new plugs because i am guessing my current ones would be soaked in petrol and fucked. get new oil filter new oil. flush the engine with shitty oil, get a working fuel tap, get a new starter motor even though i examined mine and its all fine.... but the jamming issue is still there so need a new starter motor, and even possible a starter clutch, i did get a free one from someone on here but from all the jamming thats probably knackered too. and finally check the condition of the stator. this will all be done slowly as i am running out of money.

[bikemonkey]

If I were you I'd be sending that thing to thunderace.

Too good an offer to turn down in my mind......

[speedy231278]

but the jamming issue is still there so need a new starter motor

As has been said before, change the cable to it! They make nasty noises when they don't get enough oomph behind them, and as you've done the starter clutch, it's probably not going to be that.

32402-MR8-000 £10.52 ex VAT from DSS. Bad news is that it's an up to three week delivery time, so I guess it'll be coming from Japan. Failing that, take the old one off and get someone to make up a new one. The fittings on the end won't be anything out of the ordinary. Or, there's a s/h solenoid, both battery leads and the motor lead on eBay for £20, item 120918364948. Or a starter and cable 170896385635. As it seems your starter works properly when everything else plays ball, I'd be most tempted with a brand new cable myself....

[xivlia]

hmmm thank you for that info. im just gonna change what ever looks dodgy on this bike, hell my whole wiring loom even looks shit, but there is no way of me getting a brand mew wiring loom for the nc30 anymore.