Smev wrote:Kris, out of interest, what do your db killers look like? Do they require a hole drilling in the end cap?

I may end up going to Dynotech in Basingstoke for them to sort the dash - they said they could do it when they came to a trackday on camp. plus there is the bonus they have a dyno to do all the set-properly with the rvf carbs. I'd love to know what power it makes and what the graph looks like.

Sorry Kev. Just seen this post, yeah the end caps have to be drilled so they can be fixed in place, they are only about 5inches long but they do make a difference.

Kris

ibby4585 wrote:

Smev wrote:Kris, out of interest, what do your db killers look like? Do they require a hole drilling in the end cap?

I may end up going to Dynotech in Basingstoke for them to sort the dash - they said they could do it when they came to a trackday on camp. plus there is the bonus they have a dyno to do all the set-properly with the rvf carbs. I'd love to know what power it makes and what the graph looks like.

Sorry Kev. Just seen this post, yeah the end caps havevto be drilled do they can be fixed in place, they are only about 5inches long but they do make a difference.

Kris

with Kris point regarding they do make difference.

I'm glad they work and make a difference I might invest in a set if keeps the 'old bill' (;) Kris) off by back!!

Anyway, here are the pics of the fairing and tank as it stands at the moment - I have a few weeks off work to sort them out.

And here are a few close-ups of the areas I need to repair - one of the mids hs a couple of cracks appearing.


One of the lowers has the two upper mounts broken off.


The seat unit has a few lugs broken - all in the common 'weak' points.


and last of all is the top fairing with a couple of cracks.


All should be fairly simple to repair and I have loads of time (and chances!!) to perfect the art of repairing!!

I have managed to pick up some plastics for my rebuild that need repairing, you should do a right up on the repair methods for me, I mean every one ahem...

plastex is your friend kev, as your painting it get the black stuff its stronger.

Curt, I was planning on doing a bit of a step by step write up on them anyways.

My mate who is a painter/sprayer/bodyrepairer says he sorts panels by using soldering irons, cleaning the area up from paint and grease first then using the soldering iron to work the plastic from each side of the crack or split. but without getting it too hot as it goes brittle.

I have also got a triumph top fairing donated to me by the local bike shop, to use to practice on, or to make some small brackets out of.

DM - I haven't used Plastex before, but just checked it out on the net, it looks pretty cool, especially the moulding bar bit. I think I may give it a go aswell.

I think this is my option, the fairings that I am using are white so Plastex seems to be the one to use, I have already ground out some cracks ready to drop this stuff in. I am apprehensive though and I don't know why.

Yep the moulding bar is brilliant for replacing missing lugs, brackets etc. Aslong as you have a good panel to take a mould from you can make perfect panels. plastic welding is stronger i reckon so id use that for the cracks if you can but ive used plastex on cracks too and it works fine, its all in the prep like painting, grind a nice groove out and clean the edges up then let the plastex do its magic, its stupidly easy and quick.

If you get it go for the large pack as they dont seem to inc all the little bottles and tools you get in the small ones.

I have just gone and bought the larger of the 2 plastex kits off flea bay, I will be able to tell you in a few days how the repair goes