Ok, so a couple of weeks back I removed, cleaned, primed and sprayed the various covers - which are now back on:



For your reference the colour is Ford Graphite Grey (which Viper_Biker suggested) - It goes on nice and looks real good. Couple of pointers though a) it doesn't quite match the original colour - possibly BMW Graphite Grey or Honda Grey may be closer b) I bought a larger can from Halfords it is much cheaper then ebay where the smaller can costs the same price.

The last two pictures look odd because I'm waiting for a new rear disc and a new fork kit for the front at which point I can prop the bike up correctly as the wheels can go on. Anyhow, the bikes back on the stand and the following have gone back on:

Torque arm assembly
Rear hub - with all teeth
Serviced rear suspension
Shortened linkages
Cleaned sub frame
Cleaned under tray
Cleaned rear exhaust pipes
Original overflow bottle
Original brake reservoir

The rear section of the exhaust pipes were a bitch to get back on and I spent hours fiddling in the confined space to get the springs to clip back on - never the less a bit of perseverance paid off.

I have a NC30 carbon fibre hugger however I can’t fathom how this goes on can anyone shine some light on this? There are two holes that line up where the existing chain guard goes on however there is no way to secure the other side of the hugger (although it has a metal bracket with a hole for attaching to something). Also is the existing chain guard supposed to go on underneath? As there is no way to secure the OEM brake line on the hugger itself.

This week I hope to get the pieces for the front end so you should see more of a bike by the weekend (weather permitting)

Well done matey...that looks to be coming together nicely can't wait to see the finished bike

Al

Hey Al thanks for the vote of confidence.

I had my goodies from Rick'O delivered this week so forks will be going back together on the weekend. I got the carbs finished off now - thanks to CMJMS1 for the carb housings. I've gone from being a carb novice to having to re-build a whole set from scratch and it was nowhere near as difficult as I thought it would be.



The carb setup I've gone for is:
118f/120r jets
Pilot jets 2.5 turns out
1mm shims under the needles
Standard slides
Balanced (using drill bit method)

I think this is the standard most people seem to run on here. The bike will be dyno'd once it's up and running - naturally I'll post the results when I have them.

This second picture shows the quality of Rick'O kit - I've purchased a set of road needles to replace my factory pro needles.



Anyway, no word on the hugger fitment but think I have it covered. I've just been looking at my master cylinders looks like the rear one is goosed - can I swap this out with any other m/c? Also, the rubber boot on my front m/c has disintegrated so where can I pick up one of these from?

padawan wrote: Pilot jets 2.5 turns out

Also, the rubber boot on my front m/c has disintegrated so where can I pick up one of these from?

Everything looking good so far mate!

2.25 turns out is the norm for a bike with an aftermarket exhaust or muffler, but see how your setting goes. It really only affects take off performance so you'll soon know if theres room for improvement.

The m/c rubber boot comes as part of the m/c rebuild kit, I'm not sure that you can buy it separately. Anyone?

Oh, I'm sure RO's needles will be a world better than the Factory Pro brand junk!

Looking good man...proper job!

Will be cool to see it finished..so no pressure..lol

Stickshift wrote:
2.25 turns out is the norm for a bike with an aftermarket exhaust or muffler, but see how your setting goes. It really only affects take off performance so you'll soon know if theres room for improvement.

The m/c rubber boot comes as part of the m/c rebuild kit, I'm not sure that you can buy it separately. Anyone?

Oh, I'm sure RO's needles will be a world better than the Factory Pro brand junk!

Hey Stickshift I stand corrected will change the pilots to 2.25 out - I'm aiming to keep everything as per the majority of 400gb NC30 owners.

I did think it was a long shot with the rubber boot however £20 is a bit steep for the m/c rebuild kit when I only need the boot. Seems that even used front m/c's for the NC on fleabay seem to go for a fair penny. Can I make do without the boot, or maybe use something else?

CMSMJ1 wrote:Looking good man...proper job!

Will be cool to see it finished..so no pressure..lol

I'm putting pressure on myself as it's been a year since I started this and really want to get riding this summer. Also her in doors is not happy at looking at the bike in the front yard - the sooner it's off there the better in her opinion.

Today I got the rear disc, caliper, hub all sorted however the disc rubs ever so slightly on the pads - would this be an MOT failure? Thing is both the pads and the disc are brand spanking new so not sure what I can do about it - thoughts? Also is there anyway round the sprocket should go? I have the Renthal sticker facing out.

Also, wanted to know do I need high tensile bolts for the front brake discs? I bought some shouldered A2 ones and have come a cropper as I tried to torque them up - now stuck with two chewed heads I am sure it's not a total loss should be able to get them out as they were no way near the torque range of 20nm.

padawan wrote: I did think it was a long shot with the rubber boot however £20 is a bit steep for the m/c rebuild kit when I only need the boot. Seems that even used front m/c's for the NC on fleabay seem to go for a fair penny. Can I make do without the boot, or maybe use something else?

It's not essential it's just a dust cover. Put it at the bottom of your list of needed things!

Hey All,

I've not done an update for quite a while as I've not really had much time with her in doors stacking up our social calendar. Anyway, when I have had a chance I've done the odd bit of work here and there. I rebuilt the forks with new internals supplied by none other than Rick'O:



The first image is of a completed fork along side one I had to finish off; I took this to show the difference in standard springs alongside Rick'O spring which is longer - the second pic shows you the difference in the spacer which is smaller. I didn't bother to write up a step by step guide to rebuilding forks as you can find an excellent guide on V4Chris's website.



This is the latest pic of the bike with the front end on also note the rear wheel is on. I had a royal pain in the a$$ getting the rear on because of the screw up by the powder coaters - I had to scrape off the paint to to get it on but fortunately it was the only mistake they had made. My advice to anyone else having stuff powder coated is that no matter how much they say they know what they are doing just take the time and mask up the items yourself!

I had a nightmare getting the front end on - firstly my mudguard bolts were corroded on I had to hacksaw through two of them to get it apart I then sprayed the mounts and put them on the forks. I had these on the right way around but some how got myself confused and thought they were on wrong so re-did them only to have to put them back the way they were. Needless to say the paint work got fecked but as the bike's being sprayed I wasn't too fussed I'll just get it sorted then.

I've added most parts back on now - the second pic is of the water union before it is buried away beneath the carbs - which I decided to try and put back on today.

So knowing it was going to take time I allocated all afternoon to this but it's been a major ballache! I didn't manage to get them on and I tried everything under the sun I checked the forum for tips first but to no avail. Firstly, is this correct the carbs don't line up with the V formed by the rubbers as they definitely don't in my case? My rubbers were on perfectly (as show in the photo) they were nice and soft to allow for play but this didn't help.

I went for the approach of popping in the fronts first and trying to leaver in the rears but this didn't work (there is nowhere I could find to gain leaverage). I then went for the approach of using some wood across the plate to hammer it home, this ended up with a hairline crack in the plate (I think I can get away with this though). My piece of wood also split, I tried hammering the plate (wrapped with a cloth) but again this has only got the rears in so far I still have at least 0.5cm to go and I can't really hit it any harder than I have, so can anyone help?

I know it's not an easy job to do but I seriously gave everything a go and they just don't want to sit

Good work mate

ref the carbs...they are bastards.

You can try getting the front ones in and then use a small, flat, screwdriver to prise the rear rubber on... It can be tougher than getting laid for the first time..

A tip from your uncle Kenny. Take a dremel with a fine sanding drum and round over the square edge at the back side of the rear rubbers. That's what tends to hang on the carbs as they go back on. Don't take a lot off just round them over. A little silicone to lube them and your done. I have mine down to taking 1 push to seat them.