As I said some time ago.. I had a similar locking issue - it would whizz maybe one or two revs and clunk.

You can rock it back in gear to free it up. It will then start.

My fix was to replace the battery and rectifier- they were both poorly. It turns out my stator was also burned and I foind that later.

So - I reckon the battery reads OK, but as soon as load is applied it says no.

Maybe that there is also a little bit of fuel leakage too...

Overall, I think the bike is easily fixed..but needs doing properly and with some patience. One thing at a time.

Yes CMSMJ1, I do remember that you made this very suggestion in an earlier post, but fell sure that your suggestion did not result in any action as we have not heard a result.

I have also suggested a battery load test but not sure that there has been any action taken.

i just dont want to buy a new battery as ive bought a new battery and a rectifier, and the problem was still there since the day ive bought them.

We are not suggesting you buy a new battery. Just do a load test and when you remove the spark plugs crank the engine with the START/STOP switch in the STOP position and see if the jamming problem occurs.

okay, is a load test just measuring the voltage while cranking the bike?

Yes, its exactly that.
a load test, is a test where load is applied. an ideal example of load would be the resistance of the starter motor attempting to turn the engine over.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_testi ... ing_system

Or turn headlight high beam ON while measuring the battery voltage and see how long the voltage remains above 10.5 volts. DO NOT allow the voltage to drop below 10.2 volts.

xivlia wrote:yeah its cranking over and then suddenly stops with a loud clonking noise.. i dont know where the noise is coming from tough... its somewhere from the front. well i really do think my plugs are fouled. because a similar problem did happen to me a while ago and fixed it by changing plugs, i will need to remove my plugs and have a look at them tomorrow.

This can only be a finite number of things.

Either:

Starter motor is knackered
Starter clutch / motor teeth are missing.
Battery is poor.
Bad electrical connection causing poor battery symptoms.
Hydraulic cylinder lock caused by excess fuel from carbs (not likely if it's cranking a few times)

The problem is each of these potential causes requires a different solution to fix. You don't know the cause so you guess at possible things, and change something hoping it will fix it.

This costs time and money, and you sometimes break something else in the process, your also getting annoyed the problem isn't fixed.

For the last time, get somebody who knows the bike to look at it. It won't be very difficult to fix when you know how to.

Think of it this way.

Your posts are like saying.

'My car stopped working and it's making a noise'

If you follow everybodys possible solutions you would end up buying a new car. You don't have the mechanical knoweldge yet to fix it yourself so get some help, theres nothing wrong with asking somebody who knows, thats how we learn things.

Otherwise you'll keep spending money you don't have or give up completely having ruined a perfectly good bike.

Many a serviceable bike has been ruined beyond beliefe by people who won't concede defeat and ask for help...

I am still betting on the battery cable to the starter....

I'm just here for the popcorn.