There is a little bit of wiring involved but it is a very easy job. The only thing you want off the subloom are the male connectors that connect to the coil itself, then you will wire them up in pairs to connect to the existing NC29 loom.

1. Take the 4 coil on plug coils and cut them free from the sub loom giving youself 2 inches of wire to work with.
2. Get yourself a couple of different colored wires, black, blue, yellow is good.
3. If you have a spare sit the coils in a spare cam cover, or a cardboard template of the cam cover, so you get the wires the right spacing.
4. Face the coils forward (that is the wires you cut facing forward) and label them 1-4 left to right as you sit on the bike.
5. Take a length of the yellow wire and connect it to plug 1, left wire.
6. Take a length of the black wire and connect the right wire of plug 1 to the left wire of plug 4
7. Take another length of black and connect it to the right wire of plug 4
This is one set of coils, fit the appropriate connector (I used a brand new two pin for mine), and this will connect to the Yell/Blue and Blk/Wht coil wires on your loom.
8. Take a length of the blue wire and connect it to the left wire of the number 2 coil.
9. Take a length of black wire and connect it to the right wire of number 2 coil and the left wire of number 3 coil
10. Take another length of black wire and connect this to the right wire of number 3 coil
This is your second set of coils, fit the appropriate connector (I used a brand new two pin for mine), and this will connect to the Blu/Yell and Blk/Wht coil wires on your loom.
Remeber to insulate all your joins, wrap the whole lot in tape, and give yourself enough length to meet the existing loom wires without stretching and you are done.
You may need to apply a fair bit of force to get the coils in the first couple of times, mine took a fair tab with the mallet handle to go in. But its okay, i've not damaged anything and ran them like that all last year.

So I spent the day finishing the bike off.

Fitted front brakes, fitted hte front guard, fitting rear rim, chain, sprockets, airbox, fixed the leaking radiator hose, set up the levers and bar angles (as a start point) and generally just got the little things tidied up.

Still afew odd jobs but mostly things that can be done at the track.

Or so I thought.

I wanted to ride the bike through the parking lot across the road. So I finished everything off and grabbed a spare helmet at my friends place. Got the bike down off the stands (front tyre is flat) and wheeled it out of the garage. Start it up, swing a leg over and it died. bugger. The fuse is blown. Put a new fuse in, click run, and it blows instantly.

Somewhere in the final wire wrapping and fitting I have created a short. So I kicked the front tyre, packed my tools and came home.

I have one word for you..

MEH!


fix it I want to know how it goes....

I suspect I have plugged the fuel pump in the wrong way round since yesterday. It ran okay for a minute on the stands, but then popped the fuse pretty quick.

If it's not that then it will be one of the spliced wires has worn through and is contacting something else.

I moticed the engine has a bit more vibration at idle, that is, I don't remember if that amount of vibration was normal from my other engine or not. I think it's heading towards 4-5 months since I last rode!

Well I found out what was wrong, it is something in the way I have wired in the GPS laptimer/dash unit. I had wired in a brake switch to log where I was hitting the brakes. The unit already has an accelerometer that would log this, but I thought the switch might be a better option.

It looks like in practice it won't be.

I rode the bike up and down the carpark, barely enough space to get into second. It seems to rev fine, and pulls well. It also holds a constant throttle quite well. Sounds like a bag of spanners at idle, and has a rough arse idle too. Might need a carb balance, so that will be interesting. but nothing leaked.

I can feel the new clutch grabbing. It reminds me of my old RS250, when the clutch was going home you get a vague judder. It doesn't like being slipped. I put it down to the new plates and new springs.

The tacho doesn't pick up the signal from the CDI very well and cuts out at about 8k. So I will try another method and wire the pick up direct to a plug lead. See how that goes.

Other than a few little jobs like getting footpegs and levers in a comfy spot, and putting on a seat pad, she is ready to go.

I think. I'll be running it in this saturday hopefully.

Slowly working through the calibration of the datalogging channels. So far I have had to move every pick up. The temp sensor is the worst, having to wire in a resistor so the voltage drops into a readable range for it. Did you know that a temp sensor explodes if you short it out?

I do now.

I think I am nearly done. Still aiming for Saturday if there are any spots left on the track day.

Car goes in for new tyres tomorrow, there goes the first entry fee for the year.

Gizzajobmister.

greggo wrote:I think I am nearly done. Still aiming for Saturday if there are any spots left on the track day.

Isn't there a race practice day on Sunday at Broadford? Why not do that, there would be a whole lot fewer nuf-nuf's out there with you.

Wouldn't have to listen to some goose explain why he is running slower times on his ZX10R than some chick on her 1964 125 Vespa - '...mate, I tell ya, she keeps cutting me off at the entry to the left hander, it totally screws my approach to turn 1...'

1. I don't have a race licence
2. I'm running the bike in, which means at least one session at 5k, one at 8k, one revving gently.....etc....etc....

All I would be doing is holding everyone up.

Finally got everything sorted. She is lock wired, running, electrical gremlins gone, and sorted ready to ride tomorrow. Although there are a couple of very small not important for riding jobs left to do. Like set up the dash (you have to calibrate a tonne of stuff while riding).

The way this build has been going, I hope you will all say something nice at my funeral.

Here are some pics of the finished beastie.











Now that this one is finished, the job can start on bike number 2. Reco head....bodywork....clean....sort the last few odd bobs needed.........

PS. I've been using Motul 2092 E 5w30 oil for the last twelve months, and prob have enough for one more change.

GP team oil anyone? I got it from a mate who got it out the back of a garage after the GP in 07. I scored it for $100. Never realised how special it was till I tried to order another 20 litres......"ah, no sir, that doesn't exist...."