ibby4585 wrote: Two things I have noticed Is that the left forks seal is leaking badly and the steering was shockingly stiff to the point I thought the steering lock was on initially. Hopefully the bearings are ok and they just need a clean and grease.

as for the fork seals make sure you get the correct RRSP ones, not the RR, as their a different size, the rr seals are 43/55/10.5 the SPs are 43/55 by 9.5 or 11.5 cant find the relevant spec sheet atm im sure boris, kayla, or bill, will add the correct measurements (when i find em i'll add em in if not ) but don't be tempted with cheepo seals, made that mistake and their crap, pay the extra and get genuine yam jobbies

you'll probably find it's the bottom yolk bearing that's full of shit, they generally do, if not attended to every couple of years and given a clean/re-grease,
although it could be they were on there way out and some muppet decided to take up the slack by over tightening them, only way to tell is strip it down and have a gander

Cheers for the advice. I figured if the forks need to come to do the seals I may aswell do the head bearings while I'm at it.

I can't tell you the size but if you're going to use genuine seals then just order them by model through a Yam dealer (but make sure they get the RR SP 3TJ07)

i got my forks off a breaker in bad condition, then had them rebuilt with new stanchions.

The original plan was to send the forks to K tech but I don't think that's in my budget anymore.

had a trawl through some old posts and it seems (from another regular and sp owner) that the sp seal is probably 9.5mm
if you order from a yam dealer you should be ok,
but places like wemoto list them as being the same item as the rr, they tend to do that alot, i had 3 sets of front brake seals before they got it right,
best bet, strip the forks first and measure em to make sure
the sp forks are adjustable so you might find a refresh with new seals and oil will do the job, if the chroming is a bit US it'll still probably be cheaper to have them re chromed than find new sp forks, as there rare as the proverbial rocking horse shit and expensive when they do come up

Thanks for the info mate, appreciate it.

Just a query, are the exup valves prone to sticking as when I start it they start juddering and don't do a clean cycle. I'm assuming they do cleansing cycle like the ypvs system.

Kris

They should go weep weep open and closed, like the powervalves. Have a look down at the exhaust end sometimes a cable frays and then jambs a bit. Alternativly it could just need a bit of lube - use a bit of PTFE

Cold isn't it ? A bit to much to be down the garage and Little Wifey is New York so I had a bit of a go at your bodywork over the weekend.

Here's the existing bits







The black repair is silicon, it's a fair job but when you hold the panel the repair flexes slightly and the cracks are slightl wider. The base plastic on the panel is black so any crack will show.

So I took a mould from another fairing, you need enough to locate the mould on the damaged fairing. I cut the break so it was clean and then cut into it so it make a toothed edge. Once it was offered up I taped it to be safe, then filled it up with plastex.



I left it for a an hour or so, removed the mould and then trimmed a bit of the flash off

Making the other ear is a bit more tricky (but not much). I decided to make the peice first and then put it on the fairing. I've used a bit of strenghtening matt in here and it should help to key into the original too.



Pop the mould