OKI is the std ignition isn't it?

@ monkey - if you want to nip to S8, southside of Sheff, 15 mins from J29 then you can have a use of my CDI..

Yeah that's what was on the bike when I got it.

CMSMJ1, would love to take you up on that offer, got my mod2 on Monday!
Which means only problem is I don't know how far the bike will get before it dies :/

CMSMJ1 appears to be correct, just had a look at mine and it is also OKI. Maybe your have a fault unit or one that has been "repaired"? If a replacement ignition unit has the same "problem" then there has be an issue with some part of the engine run/stop electrical system.

With a charged battery you should not have much trouble, you would need to be stuck idling for some time or do many engine starts to have a problem, would recommend no headlight though.

You also need to really measure the current drawn to confirm the ignition unit is the problem, might be a challenge by the side of the road.

bikemonkey wrote:No, I didn't have anything else turned on at the same time.

I had a look at the ignition unit and took some pictures, it says OKI electronics on the end of it :

Pretty sure the CDIs I've seen don't have english anti tamper stickers on them?

Mine did not either but had numbers printed on one surface that included MR8 which is a notation in many OEM part numbers.

I've just checked the one on my mate's NC - it has the MR8 tags and is OKI imprinted. I've lost my one from my bike..I have an ignitech fitted and must have sold it!

Cheers guys, seems its pointing towards being aftermarket, the alarm fitter thought so when he came.

Have hopefully sourced a CDI on here for a good price, and shall post back next week, when fingers crossed I'm on the road again

After what's going to be, fresh fuel, oil and coolant, and a good clean of the spark plugs!

By the way, whats the best coolant for the NC?

Replacement CDI turned up today, put it on the bike and did the same tests as the last ones before.

Reading when ignition OFF = 0.01

Reading when ignition ON killswitch ON = 0.47


Much better than 5.28 or whatever it was :)

Again thanks for all your help magg! You were right!

Glad to help. If you have a chance before you reassemble the bike check the battery voltage at 5000 rpm, as a final check on the charging system. Should be >13 volts and a good idea to use heat transfer compound between the rect/reg and the frame mount. Help get the heat away.

Checked the battery at 5K revs, got 14.4 volts, so all good