twist&go wrote:lmao ah wel least your giving it ago. after posting last night i decided to ring about to see how much a paint job would cost. told um what i wanted 2003 HRC colours (red with black honda wing) asked 3 different companys cheapest was 1100 and the most expensive was 1600 1600 focking quid 1100 was bad enough but 1600 even dick tearpin wore a mask.

That is the top end of what a paintjob would cost, it can be done quite a bit cheaper than that but for a proper job theres a lot of work involved and proper paint and skilled man hours dont come cheap these days. Im not having a dig at xivia, everyone has to start somewhere and to be fair for a first time attempt its not bad but that paintjob wont last long and will look tatty rather quick. Still he's had a go at it and im sure he'll learn from it too.

Drunkn Munky wrote:

twist&go wrote:lmao ah wel least your giving it ago. after posting last night i decided to ring about to see how much a paint job would cost. told um what i wanted 2003 HRC colours (red with black honda wing) asked 3 different companys cheapest was 1100 and the most expensive was 1600 1600 focking quid 1100 was bad enough but 1600 even dick tearpin wore a mask.

That is the top end of what a paintjob would cost, it can be done quite a bit cheaper than that but for a proper job theres a lot of work involved and proper paint and skilled man hours dont come cheap these days. Im not having a dig at xivia, everyone has to start somewhere and to be fair for a first time attempt its not bad but that paintjob wont last long and will look tatty rather quick. Still he's had a go at it and im sure he'll learn from it too.

Preperation is the key. You have to get the panels in just the right condition or no matter how good of a sprayer you are and what paint you use it won't look good.

Some high end paint places don't even let you self-prep or make it very clear if it looks crap it's down to you not them.

A good paint job can cost a lot if you just want to drop the panels off and have them back different, but you often get what you pay for.

Shopping around and doing some self-prep work you can get a good paintjob for 3-400.

You need a good compressor and spray gun for the painting itself, but you also need the paint, thinners, laquer, hardner et al.

All of these would cost you a lot to buy if you dont' have, plus being able to use them to a good standard.

A lot of it depends on the paint too, you can easily pay 60+gbp a litre for paint, which you need hardner for and laquer / hardner on top. (Phone up RSbike paints) and ask them how much it will cost for enough paint and laquer to do a complete NC30 in origianl red-white-blue colours!

Many NC30's still have spotless panels that are washed, ridden, waxed and cleaned and have survived 20 years. Due to a good paint job.

With most rattle can stuff the moment you spill a bit of petrol on it after you've filled it up that paint will come right off. Wont' hold up well to dings and what not either.

With proper 2k you can build up a few good hard coats and laquer over it.

It really all does depend on what you want to do with the bike... if anything will do and for a short time then fair enough, if you want to build your dream bike and keep it for as long as possible you should weigh the options and save the money to get it done one time the way you want it.

yeah ur right, preparation is the key, i on the other hand totally essed that part up. i rushed it i should not have, but ohwell its too late to go back now. im actually using two types of paint. one "Halfords Gloss Black" which i have no idea what type of paint it is, but i do know it is NOT cellulose. because i have a few Repsol orange rattle cans that ARE Cellulose, and its soo much different to the halfords stuff. in fact the cellulose smells like its edible where as the gloss black smells like a normal paint, but my plastics have some scratches due to to he heavy sanding to get the paint off, and i did not smoothen those scratches out and now its looking pretty bad..

one big thing... does anyone know how to get rid of "orange Peel effect"? i have a lot of orange peel on my paint... and i waxed one part of it last night and it made the peel effect worse, i thought the wax would cover it up. but it never.

xivlia wrote:yeah ur right, preparation is the key, i on the other hand totally essed that part up. i rushed it i should not have, but ohwell its too late to go back now. im actually using two types of paint. one "Halfords Gloss Black" which i have no idea what type of paint it is, but i do know it is NOT cellulose. because i have a few Repsol orange rattle cans that ARE Cellulose, and its soo much different to the halfords stuff. in fact the cellulose smells like its edible where as the gloss black smells like a normal paint, but my plastics have some scratches due to to he heavy sanding to get the paint off, and i did not smoothen those scratches out and now its looking pretty bad..

one big thing... does anyone know how to get rid of "orange Peel effect"? i have a lot of orange peel on my paint... and i waxed one part of it last night and it made the peel effect worse, i thought the wax would cover it up. but it never.

hi ,

wax wont do alot aless you have lacquered it , as for the orande peel effect, you need to sand each cost between spraying them to a matt finish then spray next coat , then a light sand with wet and dry 600-800 grade then wipe them clean then spray anthor coat , so on till you have a nice even coat ,
only thing you want to do in furture is before you put ur decauls/vinyl on is sand every thing to a matt finish ready for lacquer then put ur decauls/vinyl on , then you dont have to work around them ,
but you need to lacquer to give the paint that gloss finish , you just need to sand down the paint with 1200 grade wet and dry with some water so you get a matt finish clean them up, then spray with lacquer over the lot , put a thin layer on first then a thicker 2nd coat and maybe a 3rd if needed , its slimiler to spraying normal paint , but its all about prep as said and take ur time ,
but good on ur for having a go , always good to see

sam

Orange peel is usually because the paint hasnt got enough thinners in it but as your using cans that doesnt really come into play so id suggest warming the cans up first in a bucket of hot water. Sanding between coats does work but is time consuming and messy, ocasionally i may sand the last base coat with 1500 grit but generally if you get the primer flat you dont need to.

ahh okay thanks.

xivlia wrote:ahh okay thanks.

Many reasons.

This is why a good paint job costs a lot of money.. it is time-consuming, difficult to get right and requires lots of practice.

Part of the reason why I said it's going to cost you a fortune too.

To get rid of it you'll need to sand it back down and re-spray it.

As I said above, preperation is the key... sand with very fine wet and dry between coats (after allowing time to set and harden.. 24 hours ideally if your using rattle cans.) with lots of water.

Always degrease the panels with lots of meths if you touch them and before painting.

No polite way to say it but orange peel effect is usually always bad spray technique.

I'm going to presume you'll resand with many grades of wet and dry to get a great surface to paint to.

Now.

1. Not too cold.. Always spray above 16c ideally... no wind as it will attract dust.. forget doing it outside unless it's a hot summers day with no wind.

2. Too much paint! Apply light even coats and build them up.. it's a lot easier to put more paint on than to take it off.

3. Bad spray-can angle... depending on the can, unless you are using it at a perpendicualy angle you'll find the thinners will evaporate too quick and the paint wont' be able to level proprely (asuming you put the right amount on in the first place)

4. Not applicable to you but incorrect mix of paint / thinner and hardner and spray-gun setup.

Remember.

1. Good super-smooth surface
2. Degreased fully
2a. Proper room temperature
3. Proper primer
4. Apply light even coats and rub down between. (allow enough time to fully harden)
5. Smooth down and apply a good laquer.

A hardened 2k petrol resistant laquer would be best otherwise any petrol drips will errode the paint off pretty quick.

I paint things myself after lots of practice but I have an appropriate compressor and spray guns so can apply many different types of coats, sand and laquer... very time consuming, but the quality of the finish = the prep work.

You can't paint over-crap and expect it to look good.

Even professional painters who have done the job for years occasionally get problems with different types of paints reacting with each other, impurities in the plastic or base material permeating the paint and what not.

This is the main reason I don't paint things for anyone but myself.. very time consuming and you can have problems.

So long as you do take time though you can get some very good results... I really wouldn't recommend rattle cans though.. even different cans can have different shades.

Best idea is to do all the prep-work on all the panels then spray them all in one go with the same mix of paint (you can't if your using cans)

Spraying them at the same time and temperature with the same paint ensures that they'll all be similar.

Many of the early chinese copy fairings had this problem, even though it was the same colour different panels were sprayed with different batches of paint and when they were next to each other on the bike you could really see the difference in shade.

any updates buddy ????? looking forward to seeing the end result

no updates yet mate, the rear unit will be installed on monday IF i get my undertray and rear light on monday, if not im hoping by the end of next week.

UPDATE.

okay, ive mock fitted the tail unit on, before anyone pisses me off by saying, its not aligned properly i say again, it is a MOCK fit

and one more... yes the paint job isnt that good right now. i still ave to put another coat of paint on all the panels an then lacquer and then polish and then wax... (now u cant criticize me )