Don't feel too bad mate, took me two years to find an un-damaged headlight unit. I have two others that have been repaired in similar fashion as well.

A small update. I got the carbs back from cleaning. Got them assembled and installed. I'm not sure what is more fun; installing those carbs or getting a root canal. It took me over an hour to get the carbs into the rubber boots on the cylinder side. It don't know if they are all that difficult or it is because mine sat several years without the carbs on.

It looks like I will be doing an exhaust swap before even running it. I won an auction for a set of Autorimessa kit pipes.


I'm not sure why they have three different mid sections. The auction did say he was running a Yoshimura muffler instead of the Autorimessa. As long as they fit ok I'll have a set of Yamamoto headers and mid pipe for sale.

He,he, i get the air dryer out and warm the rubber boots first.
The pipe looks nice, it would be interesting to see which pipe gives the best power curve on a dyno.
No matter what you do to the bike the best gains come from junking the stock carbs for FCR's, the difference is amazing, its got to give 4 or 5 bhp.
When do you think it will be finished? do you have any rearsets? ive a set of coerse that are a little worn but very usable if your interested, you can have then at a good price.

I can already see I'm going to have to fight myself to keep this thing as stock as possible.

If you run the FCR33's do you ditch the airbox like this 76?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azlbIsDU ... re=related

Couple of questions as I start to tidy stuff up:

It looks like my M-Max box needs to be grounded, is this correct?

Do the fuel lines have a spring type sheath over them? Mine don't but I notice them in the workshop manual.

Am I correct that the vent tubes from the float bowls on the carbs go backwards toward the airbox?

If you run FCR's there is a carb to airbox kit available but its silly money.
M max box should have a ground wire.
Original fuel line has a spring but most are junked even before the bike got imported, ive one on my B4 and its a pain in the ass when refitting but you will never pinch the pipe and yes the vent tubes run up by the box.

Chris,
I forgot to say thanks for the offer on the rear sets but I happened to pick up a set from someone here on Ebay a while back. They are a bit beat up but will work.

It's getting close to time to try and fire her up. Right now I'm messing with the tank. I used a liquid rust remover and found the tank actually had a leak in it. I also disassembled the fuel tap and now it leaks so I have fix it as well.

This is how she stands now


The carbs were ultrasonically cleaned. I guess it works but I wasn't overly impressed. I had some rubber left over from an o ring under the slide and it was still there upon return. I messed it up as well by soaking the carbs in Simple Green before sending them off. It cleaned them but also etched the metal a dark color.


I think I have everything routed pretty well. Do the wires for the turn indicators just lay over everything?

I'm using a Uni Filter. The inlet is slightly larger than the original 400. We will see how bad it throws off the jetting along with the pipes.


I'm keeping my fingers crossed the Autorimessa pipes show up this week.

The Autorimessa pipes arrived today. They are something else. They make the Yamamoto stuff look like garbage. They have some seriously sexy bends to them. They are a 4 into 2 into 1 set up. The inner diameter of the pipes is roughly 36mm compared to the Yamamoto 28mm. Each header is individually numbered. Everything attaches by springs and kind of uniquely only use one spring at the header. The head bolts are drilled as well to accept the springs, kinda cool.

I will have to work on two issues. One is getting some sort of link pipe to meet the muffler I have off the Yamamotos. The nasty weld you see there is from the seller he added a small section because he was using a Yoshimura muffler. Also you can see one radiator hose touches the headers. There is a kit part that gives the water inlet a 90 degree bend eliminate that problem but I don't have it.

That is some sexy pipe work. Get it on a dyno.