What sort of mileage do people get out of 090's and 092's?

VFRkieran wrote:Jashdown do you find it hard to get heat into Rosso's? Ive heard they cant be troublesome to get warm because they are designed for bigger bikes.

I'm in Australia so it might be a bit different here, but I haven't had any trouble. My front is a W speed rating and the rear is a H speed rating but they both warm up reasonably quick. H speed rating is for smaller bikes with a slower top speed. I usually accelerate and stop pretty aggressively which warms them up quick, but the coldest temperature I've ridden with them is probably about 15 degrees which is warm by UK standards. On a track I'd say it would take probably 1-2 laps to get sufficient heat into them, which isn't too bad.

Yea i bet it would be harder to get them up to temp in the uk, once i fit a 17inch rear to my NC i might do a back to back test between rosso's and 090's to see which is best.

First Impressions

I have just returned from a 2 hour ride on my wife's recently acquired NC30 to which I have fitted Race Tech Valves and springs, and fitted a Battleaxe Hypersport S20 120/60/17 to the front and a BT090R 150/60/18 to the rear. I have also fitted a steering damper from RO and new tapered head bearings. My own bikes are a Blackbird, RC51, and TZR250 and I run mainly Michelins pilot pures on these.

I was amazed by the ride on the 400 and wonder if I have a sensible setup. The feeling I had was that in a straight line the bike was supersensitive to balance - almost to the level of feeling twitchy but not quite. It was doable to ride in a perfectly straight line but the slightest change of balance would start to turn. In terms of twisties it felt fantastic and almost drop itself into a corner and very easy to power lift it back out on exit. In short it was completely different to anything else I have ridden although it is the first time I have ridden with a steering damper and first time on Bridgestones and I'm not sure if these may have contributed to the feel. I'm keen to understand if this is a similar experience to others or if its down to my setup.
Regards
David

IMHO the stock sizes on the 30 make it slow to turn. Mine is jacked up on the back with a height adjustable Ohlins and I wouldn't say now it turns quick, just not so slow as before.
I'm comparing to KR1S, 999S, YB11
Mine doesn't even get close to me wanting a steering damper. Is the front wheel balanced and is the suspension all ok on yours?

DaveSkinner wrote:I was amazed by the ride on the 400 and wonder if I have a sensible setup. The feeling I had was that in a straight line the bike was supersensitive to balance - almost to the level of feeling twitchy but not quite. It was doable to ride in a perfectly straight line but the slightest change of balance would start to turn.

Mine has a raised rear which makes the turn in pretty quick, and yes it does want to start to turn just by looking where you want to go.

With standard geometry they're very stable but turn in pretty slowly, it might be worth checking if/how much the rear's been raised on yours.

to give you an idea, mine is raised so much that on the stock side stand i thought it would tip over, so i added a 10mm thick ally foot to it. the shock has a pre-fitted length of 315mm IIRC. It was my intention to drop a little off the pre load but when Kev at Projex sat on the bike to Dyno it he thought it felt good as it was and advised to leave it

Yep, I fitted an nc29 stand (longer than nc30) to mine so it doesn't fall over.

philfingers wrote:to give you an idea, mine is raised so much that on the stock side stand i thought it would tip over, so i added a 10mm thick ally foot to it. the shock has a pre-fitted length of 315mm IIRC. It was my intention to drop a little off the pre load but when Kev at Projex sat on the bike to Dyno it he thought it felt good as it was and advised to leave it

How did you fit the Al foot?

drilled and tapped the stand and then fitted the ally foot using countersunk screws