If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time........

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arsey30
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by arsey30 »

If the fault symptoms are exactly the same with both sets of carbs, it suggests fault elswhere, but if engine is good, only coil/lead/cap/plug is left, but I would expect it to miss on load, not off load.
I still suspect a carb

Dave.
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Drunkn Munky
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by Drunkn Munky »

I'm sure you right dave, I'm going to order a load of new parts and service them properly

Thanks for your help
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Drunkn Munky
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by Drunkn Munky »

I stripped down a doubled checked the carbs again this morning and everything is spot on. Tried them and this time i noticed from dead cold its fine, back presure from both cans is smooth and even but once it warms up just a little the left can becomes lumpy and if held at revs theres a distinct back fire.
arsey30
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by arsey30 »

Was it on choke when running well?

Backfire is usually ignition fault, but can be weak mixture.
I still think carb, blocked pilot circuit in number 1

I remove bowls, jets and pilot screws and apply compressor gun to pilot screw opening to force dirt back out of the jet holder.

Spray carb cleaner into pilot jet holder with pilot screw refitted and check that spray comes out of the 3 tiny holes
by the butterfly in the carb intake.
You may need to cover 2 of the 3 holes to force spray out of the other one, do each in turn.
Dave.
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Drunkn Munky
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by Drunkn Munky »

Yes on choke to start from cold but it was still on choke when it got lumpy, to be honest it only took about 20 seconds to turn lumpy and ive since tried starting it from cold again but its lumpy straight away.

Jets etc were all cleaned with cleaner and compressed air although i didnt check the 3 tiny holes by the butterfly.
lizard821000
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by lizard821000 »

feel for ya man, sounds annoying as hell. have you checked the power going the suspect cylinder HT lead? could be weak spark? straws again really tony lol it does sound carb related but im sure youv cleaned a many a carb in your time mate so if youv re-checked them too and also tryed another set id start looking else where.
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by Drunkn Munky »

Already gone down the coils route and eliminated them, even changed the cdi.

Carbs been off again to check the pilot passages and there all clear, still not running right. I dont think i have it in me to take these carbs off anymore.

Clutching at straws here but what would happen if id fitted a nc30 starter clutch by mistake, would it even start at all? like i say clutching at straws by im just going through everything thats been on and off lately. Its a NC35 motor and ignition by the way.
arsey30
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by arsey30 »

I am beginning to wonder if Number 1 pot is the problem if the motor runs so poorly.
I have run these on 3 cylinders and although the pick up is slow, they are still smooth without popping or poor running.

Are these facts correct.

This RLR engine ran well with ram air.
The ram air was converted to standard induction and the engine appeared to run well, [but how long for]
The engine was removed, stored , then replaced.
It ran poorly from then on, with 2 sets of carbs.
With no 1 ignition disconnected the revs drop

Questions.
Has anything happened to the engine in storage.
Did it really run well when put back to standard.
Is there a common fault to all 4 cylinders, not just number 1.

Suggestions.
Can you run it on the rear 2, then the front 2 to see if any difference.
[Trying to prove it to 1,2 or 4 cylinders]

[A quick check of the ignition on any 1 cylinder is to swap the leads over, either the fronts or rear cylinders as the ignition fires on the idle stroke]

Dave.
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Drunkn Munky
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by Drunkn Munky »

Are these facts correct.

This RLR engine ran well with ram air. Yes
The ram air was converted to standard induction and the engine appeared to run well, [but how long for] Yes exact same carbs and setup, it started and tick over fine many times. rev'd freely and just sounded right
The engine was removed, stored , then replaced. Yes
It ran poorly from then on, with 2 sets of carbs. Yes
With no 1 ignition disconnected the revs drop Yes

Questions.
Has anything happened to the engine in storage. I doubt it
Did it really run well when put back to standard. Yep theres a cut up video of it running in my thread (i'll find it in a min). I've cut out the long warm up and tick over but its clearly better than what its like now
Is there a common fault to all 4 cylinders, not just number 1. Ive swapped round plugs and coils

Suggestions.
Can you run it on the rear 2, then the front 2 to see if any difference.
[Trying to prove it to 1,2 or 4 cylinders] Will do tomorrow but the other 3 pipes get hot quickly where as no.1 doesnt at all really so its gota be that cylinder
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Re: If i have to take these bloody carbs off 1 more time....

Post by Drunkn Munky »


Backlash gears removed so it sounds shite through laptop speakers, big speakers or headphones are best

Since then the motor came out and a NC30 engine put in, starter clutch and pickups were taken from the NC35 RLR motor and put in the NC30 motor so it run with the 35's loom and cdi. Bike run great no issues at all.
NC35 motor back in, starter clutch and pick ups swapped back over, same carbs.

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