Work in Progress
Forum rules
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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- Settled in member
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- Bike owned: VFR 400 NC30
- Location: Middlesex, UK
Re: Work in Progress
Errmmm no, its pretty quite in this subjectBenneyboyg wrote:Any more updates ?

Anyway, welcome to the forum I see you're a new member; so what's your ride then?
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- Settled in member
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- Bike owned: VFR 400 NC30
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Re: Work in Progress
Hey Guys,
Some help if I may? See picture of streering stem with bearings. I'm going to get the top and bottom yokes powder coated but before I do so should I be looking to replace these bearings? It doesn't seem like an easy job to replace them.

Also see picture of top yoke (underside torx bolt of ignition) I used the correct torx fitting but I couldn't get the screw out and mangled the head, I bashed in a hex head but the screw will not budge, I've tried a shed load of WD40 but no joy, any ideas as the screw is half way out.

Some help if I may? See picture of streering stem with bearings. I'm going to get the top and bottom yokes powder coated but before I do so should I be looking to replace these bearings? It doesn't seem like an easy job to replace them.

Also see picture of top yoke (underside torx bolt of ignition) I used the correct torx fitting but I couldn't get the screw out and mangled the head, I bashed in a hex head but the screw will not budge, I've tried a shed load of WD40 but no joy, any ideas as the screw is half way out.

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- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:56 pm
- Bike owned: NC30 Road, SV650 Race
- Location: Hampshire, Wichester
Re: Work in Progress
as it is part way out you could drill the head off take the ignition switch out and get a grip on the thread, mabe try and file two flats on it and get some pliers on it or put it in a vice and twist,
also try heading it up, that may help break any corrosion up and them try it with more wd
also try heading it up, that may help break any corrosion up and them try it with more wd
- matty_boy
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- Bike owned: Fitness bike
- Location: Norwich, Norfolk
Re: Work in Progress
Dont heat it as the rest of the parts are plastic.
Just go and buy a set of "Easy out" bolt extracting tools, they cost about £20 and will save your life more times than you can count.
Just go and buy a set of "Easy out" bolt extracting tools, they cost about £20 and will save your life more times than you can count.
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- Bike owned: NC30 Road, SV650 Race
- Location: Hampshire, Wichester
Re: Work in Progress
I ment heating it when you have removed the ignition switch, then its just a lump of ally wiht a bolt in it
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Re: Work in Progress
Them ignition barrel bolts are right bastards to get out, they are caked in a yellow loctite.
Took me looong to get them things out.
You tried mole grips?
Took me looong to get them things out.
You tried mole grips?
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:53 pm
- Bike owned: VFR 400 NC30
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Re: Work in Progress (Wheels and Front Forks)
Hi all,
Need your help and advice. I got the quotes for the powder coaters all lined up. Decided to clean up the wheels and get the front forks stripped so that I could get everything over to them next weekend.
1) For all of you who have white wheels how hard do you find it to keep 'em clean? I spent and age getting mine cleaned ready for the re-coat and looks like the previous owner had never touched them and it got me thinking maybe I should get 'em done black instead; opinions please? (I've not decided on the final paint scheme yet.)
2) Having the later type forks I decided to follow Chris's guide to stripping them as its very clear. http://www.chrisgoddard.net/projectNC30page6#forks. Anyway, I followed his instructions by the letter and the bolt at the very bottom (which is usually very tight) to my surprise wasn't. Now it's obvious someones had a go at these forks before as this bolt is pretty shiny and new. Anyhow, I followed each step and got to the point where I had to remove the lower bolt and take out the damping rod and this is where I've come a cropper as the bolt won't come out. I can turn the bolt really easy (it's free spinning) and I counterheld the damper from the top to ensure I was loosening the bolt but no joy. I gave up here so can anyone shed any light on this, am I missing something
Need your help and advice. I got the quotes for the powder coaters all lined up. Decided to clean up the wheels and get the front forks stripped so that I could get everything over to them next weekend.
1) For all of you who have white wheels how hard do you find it to keep 'em clean? I spent and age getting mine cleaned ready for the re-coat and looks like the previous owner had never touched them and it got me thinking maybe I should get 'em done black instead; opinions please? (I've not decided on the final paint scheme yet.)
2) Having the later type forks I decided to follow Chris's guide to stripping them as its very clear. http://www.chrisgoddard.net/projectNC30page6#forks. Anyway, I followed his instructions by the letter and the bolt at the very bottom (which is usually very tight) to my surprise wasn't. Now it's obvious someones had a go at these forks before as this bolt is pretty shiny and new. Anyhow, I followed each step and got to the point where I had to remove the lower bolt and take out the damping rod and this is where I've come a cropper as the bolt won't come out. I can turn the bolt really easy (it's free spinning) and I counterheld the damper from the top to ensure I was loosening the bolt but no joy. I gave up here so can anyone shed any light on this, am I missing something

- Jon
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Re: Work in Progress
Jamb a broom handle up the centre of the fork to help hold the valve head from turning.
regards
jon
regards
jon
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- Settled in member
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Re: Work in Progress
Hey Jon, thanks for the info I'll give it a go on the weekend.Jon wrote:Jamb a broom handle up the centre of the fork to help hold the valve head from turning. regards jon
Anyway, seeing as no one's up for a debate on wheel colour I had a mooch around on the forum/gallery and seems that white is the prefered colour even though it maybe a ball'ache to keep clean. Not too keen on gold myself but then I'm not planning on a hizzy rep or anything. I thought the Delkevic wheels were deep grey but appear to black which I don't think set the bike off as-well.
Anyone finding problems with the website, constant dropped connections etc?
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- Settled in member
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- Joined: Fri May 02, 2008 5:53 pm
- Bike owned: VFR 400 NC30
- Location: Middlesex, UK
Re: Work in Progress (Still stuck with the Fork Lowers)
Hey all,
Desperately need some assistance. I tried Jon's idea of sticking a broom handle down the fork tube to hold the damping rod and then undo the lower bolt but had no joy. I then fashioned a piece of garden cane and slipped that down the side and it gave me a good hold but still had no joy.
I then thought to try and removed the tube from the lower (with the rod still in place) so that I could get direct access to the lower bush but I couldn't get the fork seal to budge i.e. couldn't get the upper and lower apart. Has anyone got any other ideas? I really want to get this sorted this weekend so that I get everything to the coaters next week.
Desperately need some assistance. I tried Jon's idea of sticking a broom handle down the fork tube to hold the damping rod and then undo the lower bolt but had no joy. I then fashioned a piece of garden cane and slipped that down the side and it gave me a good hold but still had no joy.
I then thought to try and removed the tube from the lower (with the rod still in place) so that I could get direct access to the lower bush but I couldn't get the fork seal to budge i.e. couldn't get the upper and lower apart. Has anyone got any other ideas? I really want to get this sorted this weekend so that I get everything to the coaters next week.