What did you do after the engine stopped, how did you get it started again? What were the exact circumstances when the engine stopped? If you could start it again then the battery must be ok and probably the charging system is too. What battery voltage do you get now with the engine running. Re-do the charging system voltage checks. You could also check at higher rpm to be sure that the rect/reg is ok. If the engine stopped dead maybe you have another electrical problem, perhaps a dud ignition switch or bad connection somewhere.

xivlia wrote:OKAY i am NOW soo fucking annoyed, i cant even describe it! the bike was charging when i put the new battery in!. it was showing me 14.5v at 5000rpm. and as i was riding home, and at the same EXACT spot as last time...the bike cuts off....im like WHAT THE FUCK!?....could a faulty ECU cause charging issues? someone help quickly before i smash the bike into bits....i am soo frustrated.

The ECU is sepearte from the charging system so it's very unlikely.

The problem is you don't know what is wrong, understand how the bikes works and then do half a job, guess and assume what might be causing the problem(s) sometimes without any aparant logic behind it, then don't test the bike properly and then become frustrated when it doesn't work.

Slow down, take your time, be methodical and it'll work.

The bike is mechanical, it's a machine. You need to understand how it works before you can fix it, that way you are likely to know what the problem is going to be.

Why jump to the ECU? becuase you've tried twiddling everything else and not fixed it?

Describe exactly how the bike cut out, did it suddenly come to a dead stop? Were there any loud noises or rattles, did it feel like it was running out of petrol? (loss of power and misfire?), does it run now?

As Neo has (repeatedly!) said: TAKE YOUR TIME.

You need to learn how everything works as a whole before trying to fix electrical problems. You're just randomly guessing what component is faulty, playing with your victimised component then becoming instantly enraged when things aren't fixed again. The reason things aren't getting fixed is you're not tracking down the fault, you're just bodging everything and awaiting perfection.

Read all the guides on the NC30 electrics, learn how to use a multimeter, hell even google for a simple tutorial on how electricity works and flows!

There is fuck all point posting here (you must have at least 10 times now) about how angry you are. It's frustrating when things don't work, sure, but the more you fail the more you learn so stop crying and stay focused.

Failing that I'll up my offer to £20 and a stick of rock. And I am serious.

okay well when the engine stopped the battery voltage was low as all the lights where extremely dim...so i turned of the ignition and waited fr about 10 minutes for the battery to gain some of its voltage by itself. after 10 minutes i got it working again but just bareley..i rode it for 1 minute and then it cut of again. before it cut off.. all the lights and stuff turns off.. and after a few second the bike gradually looses power and eventually stops. ive jumped to the ecu because i thought that controlled the ignition system somehow. ive checked my alternator which is fine...ive also check that the bike voltage is 14.5v at 5k rpm. i have not however checked what the voltage is above 5k rpm...if it shigher than 15v, would that be a faulty reg/rec?

xivlia wrote:okay well when the engine stopped the battery voltage was low as all the lights where extremely dim...so i turned of the ignition and waited fr about 10 minutes for the battery to gain some of its voltage by itself. after 10 minutes i got it working again but just bareley..i rode it for 1 minute and then it cut of again. before it cut off.. all the lights and stuff turns off.. and after a few second the bike gradually looses power and eventually stops. ive jumped to the ecu because i thought that controlled the ignition system somehow. ive checked my alternator which is fine...ive also check that the bike voltage is 14.5v at 5k rpm. i have not however checked what the voltage is above 5k rpm...if it shigher than 15v, would that be a faulty reg/rec?

Somethings not right here.

New battery and new reg rec yes?

It sounds like it's not charging.

With the bike turned off, no key in it, what voltage do you have at the battery now?

no not a new reg/rec yet. its still on its way im using the current one.. but i was getting 14.5v at 5k rpm so i assumed the reg/rec is working...the voltage right now on the bike without the key in. is 12.13v..but thats because it died last night..and i havent charged it.. i am charging it again now.

Have you got the Haynes manual? If so, go and read through the electrical section and test it as they instruct. When you tested the alternator setup, did you test the resistance? It's supposed to be between 0.1 and 1 ohms.

Just go throught the Haynes manual and systematically test the electrical components exactly as they describe, you will find your problem eventually. Don't rush it either, otherwise there's no point doing it.

i have. but i cant test the reg/rec because hanyes doenst make sense.. its asking me to connect -ve probe to a ground and then it says connect +ve to red and -ve to green...but i already connected -ve to ground.. i dont have another -ve probe.. its stupid.. if someone can explain better than haynes then i will do it..

Yes, connect the negative probe to a suitable ground, the frame will be fine. The switch the ignition to ON. Follow the steps from then on. On step 4, reconnect the negative probe to a grounding point, and connect the positive to the green terminal..

A point to check is the main fuse in the starter relay, they are known to develop corroded connections. A poor connection here will affect both the power to charge the battery and power from the battery to run the bike.

The green rect/reg connector wire and the frame are the same electrical point, the Haynes book is correct just confusing.