Yeah youre spot on. As I tightened down it seemed to make all the difference. Went through the sequence of rotating the crank and checking that thecamshafts were at the right position.Putting the carbs on was problematic as I couldnt tell if no. 4 was seated, so I re-took the thermostat housing off having only just refilled it. Then the back two cylinders even with new rubbers took some welly from a dead blow hammer and a piece of wood . Must have a good couple of hours to get back to the position I was in earlier. Then wished I had put the idle screw and vacuum pipe on before refitting the carbs. On top of that I had taken the rear exhaust manifold off and forgot to refit before fitting the head. Got it in position and have got the nuts on but not entirely happy that they are fully tightened. Will be a case of taking the shock and swinger out to be sure.
All fluids in now, and just the airbox and rear exhaust section to fit. Waiting on some cam cover seals from david silvers .Reckon on 1/2 days finishing off, but the weather is looking $#¥+ over the weekend.

awesome.

dont worry about it, it happens.. i spent all weekend faffing aroud with cbr camshafts and then throttle bodies not fitting and all sorts of other shit.

got it all done eventually just took a 200 mile detour in the process.

put the new oil in and forgot the change the filter etc.

just take your time and it'll all come together.

Dropped the swinging arm to give me better access to the manifold bolts and tightened that up. The right hand one on No. 3 was awkward but shes there now . Spent the next hour and a half trying to get the rear end back together before the light faded. Needs torquing up before the exhaust goes on but had enough for today. Can see it coming together but hampered by a cramped garage without lighting means everything feels like Progress is slow.Could never be accussed of rushing things....

Good on you.....least u have a garage!!!.hope all is good for you on start up..keep us posted!!

OK ..Its been a while since I last posted but the upshot is I finally rechecked the valve clearances and put her back together today. Battery was only showing 11.6 volts as its been standing but enough to crank it over draw fuel through. Changed battery over for fresh one and waited until it caught. Shes a runner but more than that I cant say. Losing a bit of coolant from Rad cap having run the bike for 10 minutes and a little smoke burning all the oil marks off the exhaust. Gonna change the air filter and balance the carbs and hopefully enjoy the summer on her.
I got distracted in February and purchased a dullville for daily commute. Must say its a revelation, but wont raise the pulse like the nc can. Certainly the NC will be my summer choice and the Dullville will come into its own in the winter, Plus the missus don't mind going on the back of the ville as it has a big enough seat for her ....

Anyhow I gotta say a big thanks for the moral support , Neo as often ,on the money with his diagnosis and the ever resourceful Rick O.. Certainly keeping the dream alive.
I thank you all.

Have an issue with the radiator overflowing. When I ran the bike up for a few minutes I noticed coolant dripping from the rad cap. Stopped the engine and let it cool before rechecking. Level had dropped by about 2 inches so topped up and rad cap left off . No sign of air in the system. Started her up without the rad cap on and watched the level start to rise. Stopped the engine and level dropped after a couple of minutes. When I put the cap back on and started her up The rad cap leaked again. I thought the level would rise and fall as it heats up and cools and excess will back flow into the coolant reservoir. Its as if the system is pressurized and the easiest way to relieve the pressure is through the rad cap. Guess the radiator impellor is ramping up the pressure but not able to escape via usual route. Any theories?

Fucked rad cap.

Should go into the overflow as you say

Sounds like a few teething issues but glad you're making progress..

dirty30-2008 wrote:Have an issue with the radiator overflowing. When I ran the bike up for a few minutes I noticed coolant dripping from the rad cap. Stopped the engine and let it cool before rechecking. Level had dropped by about 2 inches so topped up and rad cap left off . No sign of air in the system. Started her up without the rad cap on and watched the level start to rise. Stopped the engine and level dropped after a couple of minutes. When I put the cap back on and started her up The rad cap leaked again. I thought the level would rise and fall as it heats up and cools and excess will back flow into the coolant reservoir. Its as if the system is pressurized and the easiest way to relieve the pressure is through the rad cap. Guess the radiator impellor is ramping up the pressure but not able to escape via usual route. Any theories?

dead rad cap or blown head-gasket / bad seal on gasket.

do you have tiny air bubbles in the coolant? this would be compression gas and over-pressurise the system.

if not then rad cap is proabbly dead, unless the system is in the red it doesnt have enough pressure under normal situation to vent much into the expansion tank

Gotta start somewhere so primary check will be the checking the reservoir hose isn't kinked. The pressure in the system is obviously greater than the 1.1 bar that the rad cap spring seal can cope with.and is looking for the easieast way out, in this instance through the rad cap. When I did the rrear cyclinder rebuild I used a new gasket and torqued down as per manual so I'm hopeful that this hasn't blown. If it has would I not expect to find some evidence of coolant in the engine. If it means another tear down and new gasket so be it. At least I will have a better idea of what I need to do and could bypass all my previous errors. C'est la vie.