Put a fuse in and then put the multimeter on, or use the multi as the fuse to start the bike?? I have the bottom off the fuse box so can prob get the fuse in and then attach the multi through the bottom of the fuse box!

Yeah I was going to pull the flywheel and stator off so that it'd spin up quicker.

I will have to check the dead battery tomo but I'd imagine it'll be zero or very close, if I'm going total loss then I'm gonna want a spare battery unless I can use a big battery as a slave to start it off? I've fitted 70amp power pole connectors to the +ve & -ve battery terminals for quick disconnection.

No fuse, the multimeter acts as the fuse, like when you made the current measurement. Check your multimeter manual and you should find that there is a 10 amp fuse included in the multimeter that comes into play whenever the 10 amp current range is used. But if it is complicated to organize then give it a miss.

Agree a jumper battery for starting would be good way to keep the total loss battery a fresh as possible or connect a charger on the total loss battery between races.

Started up using the multi as the fuse, it fired straight up no prob, and never drew more than five amps through the multi. This was with the reg/rec disconnected so no charging circuit in operation.

Only problem I have is I haven't found anything wrong so although it's all up and running, I'm not sure I've sold the problem!

Think I'll get a big battery and also wire in some optimate leads aswell for trickle charging between sessions.

Hi Guys i'm having a Very similar problem
Bike has blown the 10A Igntition Fuse and the Spark unit(Still works somehow), Looks similar very similar to the picture on the second page , With the bike not running ? But bike does still run
Very unhappy Help?