Its unlikely to cause any real world problems but if your upgrading something there is no harm in being sure!

I've just finished doing this to my NC30. Fitted with R6 reg/rec (which i've had on the bike since last year) and a standard N3CO battery, also new last year.

I cleaned up the reg connections, replaced the yellow wiring connectors (crimped and soldered), replaced the feed from the reg/rec to the +ve side of the battery including a 30a inline fuse, and ran a feed from the reg rec to the -ve side of the battery.

I also have a RO earth wire kit fitted and brand new RO ht leads.

My readings once all upgraded are:

At idle:
No lights 14.46v
Side lights 14.43v
Main beams 14.26v
High beams 13.24v

At 5,000 rpm:
No lights 14.43v
Side lights 14.39v
Main beams 14.26v
High beams 14.2v

I also took the revs up a bit higher (about 8,000rpm) for a very short time to check I wasnt gettng anything higher and the highest reading i got was 14.48v

Does this all look OK?

Looks spot on to me, same readings I got after doing this a while ago

After discovering my connectors are all melted, I'm going to be doing this, too. Certainly the yellow alternator wires and the connector on the right side of the engine also need beefing up. It seems it's also a good idea to get rid of the stock R/R connector, which is in various states of meltdown on both of my two bikes. I have a R/R off a 2005 CBR600 in the mail. It's a MOSFET unit, so should run cooler, but it also has wired connections. I'm planning to cut the Honda connectors off and mount heavy-duty, weather-sealed Metri-pack connectors and pull new wires both to the alternator and the battery.

This page was really helpful: http://eviltwinsbk.com/forumz/index.php?topic=276.0

While I'm at it, I'm also going to rewire the ignition switch. Currently, the full current draw for the bike goes from the solenoid connector, all the way up front, through the ignition switch, and then back to the fuse box in the tail. This doesn't doesn't exactly give me a warm fuzzy. Instead, I'm going to wire a relay in the tail and send the battery output directly from the solenoid connector over the relay to the fusebox. That way only the relay coil current has to go through the ignition switch, which should eliminate any risk of this having a meltdown.

Like this kit on eBay? Item reference 380473041443.

That's a FH020, which is the current version of what that page I posted recommends. The trouble is that it's huge, and has a larger hole spacing than the original R/R. I don't think there's any way to fit it where the stock one is, it would likely have to go in the tail. For that reason I tracked down an FH008, which is about OEM size and with the same 60mm hole spacing.

lutorm wrote:For that reason I tracked down an FH008, which is about OEM size and with the same 60mm hole spacing.

Well, apparently I had gotten that wrong... I got my FH008 and it also has 70mm hole spacing. Sigh. I guess I have to manufacture an adapter plate.

lutorm wrote:

lutorm wrote:For that reason I tracked down an FH008, which is about OEM size and with the same 60mm hole spacing.

Well, apparently I had gotten that wrong... I got my FH008 and it also has 70mm hole spacing. Sigh. I guess I have to manufacture an adapter plate.

Why?

Just cut the threaded nc30 bars off and drill two 6mm holes,

The reg rec doesnt need an earth just a metal surface to disapate the heat,

Its earthed via the plug/loom the reg is ceramic and the back which is a thick alloy is just a heat sync,

The best place for the reg is in the nose cone so you can get a blast of continuos air to it.

Rick

porndoguk wrote:Just cut the threaded nc30 bars off and drill two 6mm holes,

The reg rec doesnt need an earth just a metal surface to disapate the heat,

Yeah, that's what I'm doing. I was just hoping not to have to. The problem is that there are two "ridges" in the plate where the R/R is mounted, and it's big enough that it has to sit on top of those. It works, but there's not a whole lot of clearance to the fairing. Now, the stock CBR600 mount that the R/R I bought came with actually has it mounted on spacers around the bolts, so clearly it wasn't using the mount plate as a heat sink. I'll try with it mounted on top of the ridges and see how hot it gets.

You could get an off cut piece of ally around 4mm to sit under the r/r so its high enough to avoid the ridges and still make contact with the subframe. Don't quote me on the 4 mm.