Drunkn Munky wrote:New plugs made no difference not that i really expected them to. No. 1 cylinder is definatly firing as if you remove the connection to the coil it becomes clearly worse so i think your right dave it can only be engine related now

If it's firing that's a good sign.

Maybe check the valve clearneces first of all and see if any are being held open.. thsi could be letting mixture out..

is this the engine you were going to use to ride to spain with ?

CRM wrote:is this the engine you were going to use to ride to spain with ?

No, this is my full monty RLR motor, the spain motor which i recently removed and sold was sweet as a nut

Ok compression test results

No.1 10 bar
No.3 9 bar

Cold engine

Thats just coming up to the lower limit but considering this motor has high comp heads then shouldnt this reading be higher?

Is that with throttle closed or open?

I am more concerned with differences than actual figures, as 1 low one would indicate a fault, but the results are poor [limits 10.8 to 14.7bar]

The faulty cylinder [No 1] is higher than No3 ?

Dave.

I know odd isnt it, that was with the throttle closed

Valve clearences on both rear cylinders are loose beyond the tolerances, i need to compare them to the fronts tho as i dont know if a tuned motor would run a higher tolerance????

Having carbon engine armour is great until you wanna do the valves, the complete clutch cover has to come off to access the nut then you dont have a referenace mark. is it possible to get the possition spot on just using the marks on the head? i feel this might be why im getting high readings.

If so then im gunna have to rip the carbon cover off unless a NC30 one will do?

arsey30 wrote:Is that with throttle closed or open?

I am more concerned with differences than actual figures, as 1 low one would indicate a fault, but the results are poor [limits 10.8 to 14.7bar]

The faulty cylinder [No 1] is higher than No3 ?

Dave.

I concur.

Good seal on the compression tester? Throttle WIDE open? ( remove cabrs all togheter for better airflow)

Both rears @ 11 bar with carbs removed, still not great is it

Lining up the cam marks is accurate, anyway you are looking for nil clearance, but as both compressions are the same, then no engine [or valve timing] problem exists that will make 1 cylinder run poorly.
[HRC run RC30 I/L valve clearances almost 1 thou slacker [0.02mm].

Worth riding the bike now, to evaluate the pick up, in case you are chasing shadows.

If poor, you now know which cylinder, so concentate on that carb.
Dave.

To be honest i dont hink it runs well enough to risk breaking down, i live at the top of a hill and theres no way im pushing the bugger back.
It revs up cleanly but the idle is crap, its smooth but theres that intermitant cough which leads it to stall.

Wouldnt the fact that it does pretty much the same thing on both sets of carbs ive tried rule them out?