trademe900 wrote:Everything from 6k upwards is great still. It just isn't even though... you pull out and it goes flat at 3k and then another slight hesitation at 5k.

I haven't tried a washer under the needle yet. Maybe that's what I need to do now. Just put another 0.5mm one on eh? Is it possible to do it without taking the carbs off?

They do pull quite strongly off idle then lack a bit of torque when in the midrange, raising the needles usually helps. Replica hrc springs is a better option IMO, but both should improve the midrange.

I don't think it's possibe to get to all needles without taking the carbs off, you should be getting good at it by now...

Going out to try buy some 0.5mm washers. If it sorts my 3- 5k I'll be so happy! I hope I can get it running perfectly.

Thanks for the help so far... almost there I reckon.

Had the same "Deep Gurgling" sound on start today, but after warming up, and under load the bike ran as normal.

Humidity jumped from 4x% yesterday to 9x% today....may need to get the needles adjusted for summer humidity, no? It will be constantly above 80% humidity until.....november or thereabouts once summer gets rolling.

Cammo wrote: Stock is 1 & 5/8, ±1/4 turn. Anything different to this will just be covering up other issues IMO.

what does the 1/4 mean? obviously the 1 and 5/8 is the amount of turns out but where does the 1/4 come into it?? is it 1 5/8 then another final 1/4 turn?? or 1 5/8 and can be 1/4 turn either way to be in a safe zone of too lean and too rich??

sorry if it's a silly question..

Yeah the quarter turn is just a tolerance... within a quarter of that setting it recommends.

I just ran it with 1mm washers on the needles. It is better but it's still there... add another 0.5mm?

It's always perfect when cold and then when it gets warm this stuff shows up. I think the float height did a lot though.

trademe900 wrote:Yeah the quarter turn is just a tolerance... within a quarter of that setting it recommends.

I just ran it with 1mm washers on the needles. It is better but it's still there... add another 0.5mm?

It's always perfect when cold and then when it gets warm this stuff shows up.

The pilot screws should be set when the engine is warmed up and running.

If you don't have a digital tacho etc to note fine engine changes the below will work pretty good for most engines.

Turn the idle up slightly (fast idle)

Having a big fan at the engine will help if your slow at doing it / first time as you dont want it to get hot enough to put the fan on.

Turn the pilot screw(s) in until the engine idle begins to drop and get rough.

Turn the pilot screw(s) out, you'll hear the engine get smooth and peak and then drop off again

When the engine gets rough back them in 1/4 - 1/2 a turn and you should be there.

Work in 1/2 turn increments and wait a few seconds for the engine speed to idle out after each adjustment, the idea is to get the smoothest, richest idle at temperate without over-fuelling the engine, many manufactureres have the idle mixture overly lean to help with emissions.

On a stock set-up the manufacturer settings wont be far away anyhow.

Ok I'm out of ideas now. With 1mm washer under needles it still has flat spots in the low end at 3k and 5k although it's better.

I'd say near perfect when cold but when warm the problem is there... what's up with that?

Only thing left is to try is the stock snorkel...

If it's worse when the bike warms up does that mean I need to lean out the mid range? So wouldn't adding washers just make it rich and worse?

trademe900 wrote:If it's worse when the bike warms up does that mean I need to lean out the mid range? So wouldn't adding washers just make it rich and worse?

When you say cold, do you mean low water temp? Or when using choke etc?

another possible foolish question..

how is the float height adjusted?