xivlia's thread of nc30 problems and questions

[hannakournikova]

Youve fried the battery and reg recis my guess. Get it running then check voltages at certain revs. Info on here somewhere.

[xivlia]

i left it running cause the battery was already low. and i wanted to charge it by leaving it on idle...apparently that doesnt work...yeah im gonna try ad see how the things are hanging.. hopefully they are not damaged.

[Le_Blur]

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=31178

Try this. It has some useful tips on some tests to run using a multimeter.

[xivlia]

hmm nice thread. il have a wee read tomorow

[magg]

Running at idle is unlikely to put any charge into the battery. In your case, if you have to jump start the engine then the battery is going to be pretty flat and will not sustain the idle speed ignition load for long, which is why it stalled after a while.

Do you have a battery charger, if so FULLY CHARGE the battery and then measure the battery voltage when the engine is running at 5000 rpm, should be 13-14 volts.

If no charger, get the engine running and keep the engine speed around 5000 rpm while measuring the battery voltage, should read 13-14 volts. Go for a 20 minute ride, stop the engine and measure the battery voltage, should be 12.8 volts or more. If the battery voltage is less than 12.5 volts it is probably stuffed. Try staring the engine, the battery voltage, while cranking, should not drop below 10 volts, the higher the battery voltage the better. If the engine fails to crank and/or the battery voltage drops below 10 volts then the battery is probably stuffed.

[amaechizzle]

Also, while the battery is charging, check to make sure the battery is accepting the charge after about 30 mins.

[Neosophist]

i dont see how the bike can loose all its voltage when the bike is actually running....dont you think its the alternator rather than the battery which is at fault? :\

The bikes charging system isn't designed to charge a deeply discharged (flat) battery, it's designed to maintain a healthy battery, which is why you should always fully charge a battery with a motorcycle charger and use an optimate if you don't use the bike every week.

Recharging a dead battery puts a lot of strain on the alternator which is one way to burn it out.

You need to do a full electrical test.. no idea what state the battery is in.

Test the alternator, reg/rec and battery and replace whatever needs to be done.. suspect unknown batteries should be replaced as a matter of course.

A old / dying battery cannot take charge properly and will burn the reg/rec out as it has to burn off the excess charge as heat.

A motorcycle doesn't charge the battery till off idle anyway but do a full test.

Rather than open new threads all the time do a search, this is covered very often and there are many guides and links on how to test the motorcycle charging system.

Maybe if you take more time and not be in such a rush you wont break so many things.

Better to ride a safe bike than a falling apart death-trap.

[Neosophist]

http://www.akhara.com/nc30/nc30parts/index.htm

Microfiche here.

Use some common sense.

The microfiche are exploded diagrams that show you how things are assembled.

If you are not sure when taking something apart take pictures or drawings BEFORE you do it.

[iDemonix]

Also where's your heat shield.

[Neosophist]

Also where's your heat shield.

I don't think that's his bike, just an example. However, the heatshield would probably rattle around on those aftermarket pegs as there isn't anywhere to bolt it too.

Some people take it off to show off bling pipework but that system doesn't look fancy (or clean)