Wasn't it disassembled before cleaning, what liquid did they use?

StrayAlien wrote:I've been called many things, but tonight you can call me unlucky.

I got my carbs sonically cleaned and they've now siezed - corroded inside in places I think and the jets also just plain siezed in - no change of getting those soft brass things out without destroying them. I've got pics of that but it's too depressing ... so I'll do them later.

So, a replacement set arrived today and I set about attempting to strip them straight away.



Hmmm .. this doesn't bode well ...





Yikes .. neither does this ...



And after much screwing about trying to get a float bowl off ... I get this. Geeez:



Yuck. And the next one looks like this. F*ck.





.. and the next like this ...



... and the last was also a disaster. Here is the happy family:



I have them soaking in petrol at the moment but I doubt I will be able to salvage any of those at all.

I'll be asking for my money back tomorrow ...

sigh ... into bed.

The nasty pictures above are actually for the *replacement* carbs that I bought.

But in terms of the sonically cleaned ones:

He used a citric acid based solution that was the colour of dark tea (no milk!). He said it costs him like $800 for about 10 liters of the stuff.

The carbs were dissassembled but I think the solution and the sonic intensity must have been very aggressive - it took the plating off some bits as well.

Within a week they had started to corrode with powdery puffy nodules all over so I called him and he said he forgot to 'oil' them - said he normally used WD40 or something similar to spray them after blowing out passages with compressed air and drying.

I did same and then re-assembled them. But, while they were sitting for a month or so stuff just seezed up. The pilot jets are just locked in and I have already destroyed one trying to get it out - hence needing new carbs.

They are seized enough that trying to turn the tops of the pilots just mangles them. I have dremelled new grooves, and then they just break as well.

Is there a magic way to get seized (brass) jets out of a carb?

those replacement carbs are insane...did you dig them out of the desert or something!?
Something aint right with that ultrasonic cleaning, i haven't had it done personally but everyone i've heard that's had it done on here and friends havent had any issues like that.

Sorry, I misunderstood. The new ones look like something out of a post-apocalyptic movie

StrayAlien wrote:The nasty pictures above are actually for the *replacement* carbs that I bought.

But in terms of the sonically cleaned ones:

He used a citric acid based solution that was the colour of dark tea (no milk!). He said it costs him like $800 for about 10 liters of the stuff.

The carbs were dissassembled but I think the solution and the sonic intensity must have been very aggressive - it took the plating off some bits as well.

Within a week they had started to corrode with powdery puffy nodules all over so I called him and he said he forgot to 'oil' them - said he normally used WD40 or something similar to spray them after blowing out passages with compressed air and drying.

I did same and then re-assembled them. But, while they were sitting for a month or so stuff just seezed up. The pilot jets are just locked in and I have already destroyed one trying to get it out - hence needing new carbs.

They are seized enough that trying to turn the tops of the pilots just mangles them. I have dremelled new grooves, and then they just break as well.

Is there a magic way to get seized (brass) jets out of a carb?

Bloody hell, someone tried to really shaft you with those carbies! Was it a private seller or did you pay a visit to Vic Motorcycle Wreckers?

I'm loving all your work with the linkage and CBR shock, will be very interested to hear how they perform.

The carbs came from a bike wreckers (not Vic Wreckers - I try them last as they are SOOO expensive), and they seem pretty good about replacing them. Cool. However, they only have a set of RVF carbs there now ...

I see that, in theory, they fit, but are the parts interchangeable? My current NC30 carbs are HRC setup (including drilled top tray etc) and I have a NSR250 single cable throttle.

More hassle than it is worth?

StrayAlien wrote:However, they only have a set of RVF carbs there now ...

I see that, in theory, they fit, but are the parts interchangeable?

Very few parts are interchangeable, and those that are (jets, pilots etc) will be the wrong size.

Thanks Cammo. Appreciated. Pass on that then.

Some of the guys I race against use RVF cabies on their VFR's, they prefer to extra mid-range power you get from the RVF's. Apparently the VFR's have a little more up top but it's not like they're flying past us near the end of the straight, so if you only can get RVF carbies I'd grab them.

I'm not 100% sure but I'd guess you'd be able to swap over your top tray onto the RVF, and I only use a single throttle cable as one, but I did it the tight arse method of simply removing the closing throttle cable. The spring on the carbie is strong enough to close the throttle without the need for a cable which I find always seems to make the throttle action a little heavier (but maybe that's my lack of cable maintenance??).

On a completely different subject (want happen again, sorry!!!), what discs did you end up running on the front? I know you weren't happy with the EBC's and mine are well past their use by date and want to get 2 sets, 1 for my dry wheels and a cheaper set for my wets (I figure Chinese discs may be fine since I won't be braking as hard in the wet).

You'll need an rvf throttle opening cable if you go for the rvf carbs.

I think there's a significant power advantage using hrc vfr carbs compared to rvf standard (i.e. jetted only) carbs.

You could always modify the rvf carbs to hrc spec, but you'd need to buy the replica carb kit from Rick Oliver plus an airbox upper.

I prefer the rvf carbs on my vfr roadbike, but much preferred the vfr carbs on track.