I am not telling SilerSurfer to use only one phase, I have consistently told him it is a bad idea even in the short term. I do say that using one phase will only result in a flat battery long-term and not a burn out stator.

The 30 A fuse is there specifically to protect against a short circuit fault in the rect/reg. Short circuit faults in any of the sub-circuits will cause the fuses for those specific sub-circuits to blow before the main fuse blows. I do not like the way in which Honda has integrated the main fuse into the wiring loom and that issue I have covered in my post "Charging System Wiring Improvement". The main fuse is not a protection device to limit the output of the generator, that is the function of the rect/reg. There is unfortunately no protection against a failed rect/reg overcharging the battery or damaging the electrical system. It would be simple to add such a device, called an overvoltage crowbar.

I said one phase will only provide a limited amount of current, power if you prefer, and that it would be insufficient to run the full electrical system. The two phases not connected to the rect/reg will not contribute any power to the electrical system.

Magg ,i know that the STD bulbs are 55/60 but these are 18/18 for some reason (bought the bike like that). And i`m using 2 of the yellow wires from the genny on the currenr R/R ,so doesn`t that mean that i`m using 2 phases? plz.explain if you don`t mind

You must have very dim lights with only 2 x 18 W bulbs.

Connecting two yellow wires only gives one phase. There are three coils in the stator hence with yellow wires coming out. Between each pair of wires there is one coil and therefore only one output or phase. You need to connect all three wires to a rect/reg to get three output or phases. Hopefully the diagram below can explain if my words fail.

thanx, now i get it, it makes sense now,so what do you think about using a r1`s reg/rec. ?

and would it be possible to get a diagram of what a R/R looks like inside (like the pic above) ?

I could but better if you search the web for a copy of the Honda Common Service Manual, it has a detailed explanation of how the charging system works, including the rect/reg.

At one point you said all was fixed and it must have been loose connection, what battery voltage readings did you get that made you think the problem was solved. Then you replaced the original rect/reg with a single phase one, why if the problem was already fixed?

It seemed to be fixed but after i went to a friend`s and tried to start it was dead again then i charged the battery, and did the test again,the R/R output was only 1,76 volts and the genny was 47,2 on all three wires .so i put the other one on and so far it`s holding up

where did you measure the 1.76 volt?

on the two wires that go to the battery from the R/R(when battery is disconnected).

The rect/reg will not function correctly without the battery connected and approx 1.7 volts is the result to be expected. You need to reconnect all the parts of the charging system and remeasure the battery voltage when the engine is running at idle and at approx 5000 rpm.