Neosophist wrote:Split it into sections and try reseating it all, like Mark has suggested, this can often seal a leaking joint.

If you are really struggling, what i've done in the past is use some silicon.. the type you need a matick gun for, i.e. bathroom silicon, I prefer clear but any color will do.

Apply a ring around the end of the smaller pipe so when you connect it together it will fill any gaps and set, this will form a flexible joint thats quite heat proof.

I use high temp gasket goo also, the spring tension alone isn't enough to seal the joints on some systems.

Okay so did my valve clearances, cleaned carbs and sprayed the front end. Started putting it all back, connected up switches ignition etc... no luck starting. Didnt even sound like it wanted to start, I left the clocks off for now could this cause issues?

Don't have the spark plug tool (not sure where to get them besides ebay) so cant check for spark or if its flooded.

It should still start with the clocks off but it will cut spark to 2 cylinders at 5000 revs.

Bare in mind that if you've cleaned/drained the carbs then they can take a considerable time to fill with fuel when you go to start the engine. It can sometimes take more charge than what the battery has so best to use jumper leads.

These days if I drain the carbs I use a syringe or squeezy bottle to squirt some fuel into the carb fuel inlet line (the line that runs between the carbs and tank) so that you don't drain the battery trying to fill the carbs with fuel. This is assuming you still use the standard vacuum operated fuel tap arrangement - make sure you've connected this line back up!

RegionX wrote: Don't have the spark plug tool (not sure where to get them besides ebay) so cant check for spark or if its flooded.

You can use a long 13mm socket on a ratchet. A good idea to check for spark before looking further!

Okay, I'l give it another try but I did check the float bowl drain screws and I definitely getting fuel, didn't realize it would take so long to fill up tho. Had the battery on charge last night but if it doesn't take I'l use jumper leads.

I did unplug a lot so if there are any electrics that will allow the starter motor to work but not let the bike start, please let me know. I remember trying with a socket but the top of the spark plug was too long. I'l try again, thanks.

RegionX wrote:Okay, I'l give it another try but I did check the float bowl drain screws and I definitely getting fuel, didn't realize it would take so long to fill up tho. Had the battery on charge last night but if it doesn't take I'l use jumper leads.

I did unplug a lot so if there are any electrics that will allow the starter motor to work but not let the bike start, please let me know. I remember trying with a socket but the top of the spark plug was too long. I'l try again, thanks.

Yes there are many... coils and pickups spring to mind.

Your killswitch isn't on is it?

You need a long reach (deep) 13mm socket.

Kill switch is set to run. Pretty sure I didn't disconnect the coils and pickups. Tried again with a full charge, absolutely no sign of life, my socket is just a bit too short but Il buy one tomorrow. If there is no spark where do I go from there? Is there anything I can check with the multimeter?

In all likely-hood I flooded the engine, how do I go about drying the plugs?

Okay got the plugs out and they dont really look wet at the tips but just below the thread they are a bit wet. Checked the spark and it was as I suspected... Sometimes its sparks as I press the button then nothing and sparks again as I let go, I have no comparison but the spark seems weak too. Now I know what you are going to say, new plugs, but the plugs are only a couple of months old and I had the same problem before I worked on the bike, it struggled to start and when it did take it was as I let go of the button. So, do I clean and dry the plugs? If so what do you clean them with (petrol I would assume)?

If it is not the plugs then what are the possibilities? I dont have enough electrical understanding to work out how letting go of the button would send spark seeing as the button obviously makes good contact and sends signal to the starter motor the entire time.

The spark only appearing only as the engine starts cranking and again on release of the start button suggests a loss of power to the ignition system when the battery load increases under engine cranking.

Try monitoring the voltage on the black with white stripe wire at either the ignition coils or the ignition control box while the engine is cranking. It should remain equal to the battery voltage, if it is less then you need to back check the continuity of the black/white wire through the kill switch to the junction at the starter switch. Any significant resistance along this path will diminish the power available to the ignition system.

Also the green earth wire at the ignition control unit should show good continuity to the chassis.

RegionX wrote:Now I know what you are going to say, new plugs, but the plugs are only a couple of months old

Hard to tell from pics but they look far from ideal to me.

they look pretty coked up - have you tried to burn that shit off them on gas cooker? They get fecking hot...so hold them with something other than your hands!