Yes mate,

Your crankshaft and camshafts will be timed in perfect harmony with each other regardless of the crankshafts position.

cool :) thanks for the advice, but i now have a bigger problem! my bike wont start when i installed everything lol... :\

Did you disconnect any plugs? Have you removed a spark-plug and checked your getting a spark?

Did you remove carbs to check valve-clearnaces?

okay. so good news! i got my bike starting again. i left it running for about 10 mins on idle. and gave some throtle a few times. i figuired out my idle seems to change sometimes. its ment to be at 1500 rpm but it sometimes goes up to 2000-2500 rpm on its own. and jumps about like that, i thought it was because i needed carb synch and adjust each carbs idler. but it came to my attention that i may be running on two cyclinders. and thats why its jumping about. sometimes only two runs and sometimes all 4 runs.

Hence the increase and decrease on revs. i got a bottle of water. and squirted some on to the front two exhaust pipe. (the ones behind the top radiator) and the water instantly dissapeared. i then went to the rear pipes (the one behind the exhaust heatshield) and squirted water on the first one...the water stayed there for a bit. and then slowly very slowly evaporated. and i squirted water on the other pipe. and the water jsut stays there...wont turn into steam...so what do you think caused this? bad plugs?

Did you put new plugs in it or are you using the ones you soaked in petrol for four days.

Ive been having similar problems after doing some reading there are a number of things to check,

Coil packs, being both rear cylinders could be a bad coil pack if you have a multimeter you can measure the resistance of the packs. If not try swapping them around to see if the problem switches to the front.

Sparks - Make sure the plugs are dry and not fouled

Carbs - Check the float heights and that the pilots arent blocked. Hold the revs at 5500 and see if the rears then heat up as this would indicate the pilot circuit.

Although in my case it turned out the fuel tap was broken allowing to leak in to the carbs when the engine was off. Combined with a stuck float was meaning it was leaking in to the inlet port of the block. Which obviously prevented any air into the cylinder and also soaked the plug. A new diaphram kit and a blow torch on the plugs to dry them out fixed it for me. Also did an oil change as fuel had got past the rings into the block.

im using the same plugs that i soacked in petrol. but i dried them with a hair dryer. i might just take it to my local dealer and get it fixed there. i cant be bothered doing it myself. il get the carbs synched and idles adjusted whle im at it.

swap the plugs over from front to back.

that wil tell you if it is the plugs.

hair dryer is not hot enough to dry plugs - you needed a gas flame..

is the bike actually rideable? you say it was on flat tyres in another post..

CMSMJ1 wrote:hair dryer is not hot enough to dry plugs - you needed a gas flame..

As said a hair dryer will not be enough, heard of people sticking them in the oven although if you have a blow torch that would be best.

Gas cooker burner ring , hot air gun on max, blowlamp.

I have not worked out why yet, but if I put a very hot plug into an engine that won't start, it will often go.
Is it less to do with spark intensity than the heat aiding combustion/ ignition?

Dave.