Black engine with red heads is fine.

Michael

Why paint them at all, I'm only going to be doing the clutch & genny covers on mine.

The lower crankcases are pretty corroded and although it has been cleaned up, it ain't pretty! I've been reading your thread with interest as we seem to have similar plans with the builds!

oooh really, cool.

Looks good project so far.

Apart from the big dip in the middle of the dyno-graph, have the FCR's improved the mid-range power over the stock CVK's?

I thought it would make more power with all the work on it though?

I still haven't had a chance to ride it with the FCR's fitted! The front end was bent from the van crash and I still am waiting for it to come back from the engineers for straightening

About the big dip in the midrange; the tuner came back with a few notes- Needed an accelerator pump rebuild kit and some different needles. Accl. pump is now done but unfortunately the needles I need are special order from Japan which Drew can get, but will have to order 20 sets! That will work out about ~$800 shipped I'm holding off doing anything though until the engine build is done and I re-dyno the bike to see where I'm at. The needles should fix the big midrange dip though and I have one size down to fit in the meantime.

Power-wise, the 65bhp is on a stock motor. I wish I had it dyno'ed before so I would know the difference but hey-ho. I'm just waiting on a couple of parts from the UK before I can get the crank balanced and then the internals super-finished. I'll post-up a dyno update when the engine is done and see where I'm at but I'm hoping/looking for between 70-75bhp

Ah awesome, that makes more sense. Decent output from a stock-setup too!

With the FCR's etc I wasn't sure what state of tune you had the motor in.. and yep a dyno before hand is always good.. and always something I think why didn't I do haha!

Ah buggar, it's always 20 sets isn't it.. Hopefully you can source a good set of second hand ones or something very close, you can get some turned down by a local machinist if you have something close and the advice of a good dyno tuner on how to alter the needle!

It'll get there :D Look forward to see results.

Been a while since an update. I have been sidetracked renovating the kitchen, but have finally got my ass back into gear. Took a while as well for the NC35 wrist pins to turn up which held up the crank balance.

Got the bits and pieces back from the machine shop. NC35 pistons and rods matched and the crankshaft balanced. I also had all of the case covers stripped and cleaned for painting.

Balanced Crank:


Matched Pistons:


Matched Rods:


A lot of people have been asking about NC35 pistons over the NC30 ones. I thought I'd take a few side by side pics for comparison to see the different designs. I'm really hoping I'll have time to install one 30 piston and on 35 so I can take volume measurements and figure out if they actually do raise compression slightly. NC35 piston is on the left (the new looking one), NC30 on the right (scorched):

NC35 vs NC30 pistons and pins


Side view:


Bottom view:


The next part of the plan was to ship pretty much every moving part of the cryoscience technologies in the US for REM and cryo treatment. I spent a couple of days packing and labeling everything only to find out that they would no longer offer the service. I won't go into details, but it is a real shame as I acquired a quote from another company offering the same service and the price was close to 10x as much! Needless to say, I'm not persuing these treatments any more.

Packed up but no cigar:


Without the need to wait for the cryo/REM treatment turnaround, I can finally start rebuilding. Spraying the cases:









Really pleased with how these came out. I know it's a bit pointless doing a nice paint job on a race motor, but for $40 worth of spray cans and a couple of hours of my time, it looks much better than it did! Heads and all case covers will be black.

Got back into the garage this weekend, now that the paint on the block has been baked off and now chemically resistant. The plan is to get the engine finished and in the bike by the end of April in time for the final round of the PMCC Summer Series. I checked the bearing clearances again for the 3rd time and all was good, so I installed the crank, rods, pistons and gearbox

Crank:


Pistons, rods and rings:


Uprated 6th gear from Rick O


Rebuilt gearbox with fresh seals:


Final assembly before sealing the cases:


Bottom end rebuilt:


I was not just pleased with how easily everything went together but also how easy it is to turn the engine over. I ran through all the gears and the box feels very smooth. Was a little concerned that I missed the specific ring rotation in the book, but I did insure that all the rings were offset, so it shouldn't be an issue.

After reading Tanuki's rebuild thread, I'm praying that I don't get any leaks as once this is back together, I really don't fancy taking it all apart again!

Very nice!How beautiful is the clean engine .