Work in Progress

[zimm]

Poor, poor negleted NC30; keep at it and it should come up trumps in the end! :)

I'd go with the RWB scheme and in imo, powdercoating the subframe is a better option than plain painting; I just got my Bandit4 frame/subframe, swingarm & fork bottoms shot blasted & powdercoated for £130; done by SPC in Slough: http://www.sloughpowdercoating.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hey Speedy,

Long time no hear, how you been? Thanks for the link I've been looking around the area for powder coaters, going to get some quotes lined up in the next week so will give these guys a call.

Been away for a couple of weeks on hols and just got back; seems I brought some sunshine with me but I'm sure it wont last long, so get busy on that bike!

Found 3 other coaters in Middx when I was looking for them and they're all in Slough; the lowest quote I got for my frame/subrame (it's 1 unit), was £80 for powdercoating only, the prepping would be up to the customer as they don't have shotblast facilities, (the guy suggested Nitromoors [sp?] to get rid of the old paint); I can't remember which co. it was though. The others had quotes of £150 & £180

http://www.chingfords.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.cpkindustrialfinishers.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.nationwidecoatings.co.uk/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
There's also: http://www.triple-s.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; which are apparently well reputed!

if powdercoating , use a place that will do the prep and the coating, i had a nightmare getting my frame done using multiple places, ended up looking shit with the sandblasting guy blaming the powdercoat place for being wank, and the powdercoaters blaming the sandblaster for doing poor prep.

i ended up getting everything chemically cleaned back to bare metal by a place in wiltshire, then being blasted and coated again by a bike part specialists in Bristol

[padawan]

Ok so whats the verdict



The impelar/fins look corroded but on close inspection they should come up clean, there is no play (checking as per Haynes).

[padawan]

So .. it was pretty quiet in here after I asked for the verdict on the pump Anyway, I got cracking on sexing up some parts today (the masking is still on some of the items):



Had a bit of let down as well; I went to remove the rear wheel to get started on the hub assembley etc and I realised I didn't have the right socket to get it off, so can anyone tell me what size it is, I think its 36mm? Want to be sure before I go and get one.

Initially I was intending to strip down to the swinger/frame keeping the engine in but looks like the bike is telling me to strip it down completely as the engine bay doesn't look too hot. I was thinking of getting it steam cleaned, anyone done that or can recommend a way to clean it up?

Oh and do I need the castle nut tools to get the engine and swinger off? I know I need them to be able to torque them up correctly on re-fit, just wondering if I can initially get away without and use a drift of similar.

[Neosophist]

Is the drainhole clear?

Depends how much cash you have but I managed to pick up this off ebay for £24 delivered....



The NC30 is the same as the NC21 / 24 pump....

Least yours is in better nick than my old one.

[padawan]

Is the drainhole clear?

Hey, Neosophist, yes the drainhole is clear I used some wet and dry on the fins and it cleaned up real good so its A1 now; I've hammerited the outer in BBQ spray so its looking good.

[Neosophist]

Ah cool, saved yourself £20 odd quid then... :)

The main reason my pump had rusted was the bearings had gone and the drainhole was clogged.

You flushed the coolant good and proper too?

[padawan]

Ah cool, saved yourself £20 odd quid then... :)

The main reason my pump had rusted was the bearings had gone and the drainhole was clogged.

You flushed the coolant good and proper too?

Yip, every penny counts esp as my mods list is growing.

I flushed the system prior to removing the rads etc but will run some redex treatment once I've got it all back together again.

[Speedy]

:D that second photo of yours looks like the clothes line in my garden too only a few days ago!
Couldn't comment on that pump, but at first site it didn't look too good to me; but what do I know? :)

P.s. you got another PM.

[padawan]

Hey All,

No pictures today as I was too busy doing stuff and didn't stop to take any. So after meeting Speedy to grab some tools it was back to base to get the swinger off. Anyway, as usual what you think will be a two min job turned into a couple of hours just trying to get the rear hub off.

In my impatience to get moving I'd taken off the sprocket and rear caliper only to realise I needed it on to get the hub nut off (note to self must read Haynes first). So got it all back on and proceeded to get a hernia trying to get the hub nut loose

The thing wouldn't budge and I'm not a beefy bloke so it was hard work. I then rem guys on the forum talking about using scaffold poles to give more torque to the breaker bars, so off I went to the wardrobe to grab 4ft of stainless steel tubing I'd put up (of course the wife was not impressed at this point).

Anyway, slipped this on to the breaker bar, one foot on the rear brake a few expletifs later the nut shifted. I was getting the point where I thought the bugger would never come off.

Now, I've realised another problem I don't think there's enough clearance to get the swing arm pivot off without taking the exhaust off, has anyone managed to do is? I've just checked the Haynes and it refers to taking the pivot off and drawing it through the swinger, is there enough clearance for this?

Speedy, good to see you fella and thanks for the tools, will be back with you asap. Hope you managed to get more done on the CB than I managed.

[padawan]

So made some more progress on the bike today:



I've had serious issues trying to get the rocker and link out. I did get the shock out but in a convoluted way and I'm stuck with the link and rocker still conected to the frame. Essentially when I turn the bolts (which are very tight) I get a huge kick back/grinding noise on part of the turn it feels like the bolt is skipping threads and the bolt is not coming undone, anyone experienced this before/know what I can do? I've put loads of WD40 in all the obvious places but the bolt still won't pass through.