CMSMJ1 wrote:

lizard821000 wrote:took the rest of the week off work so i can get me carbs removed/checked/cleaned/refitted...... and get some shit done around the house that needs doing too tbh......thats about the last thing on the vfr list too i think, part from checking valve clearance, might let a dealer do that, only costs a 50 dont it. i hate going anywhere near engines.

Costs more than that..and it is easy, so get on it lad.

It is time consuming and new shims cost a fiver....so save the dollar and sort it

shaun, your on the best forum for advice so why not try if you get stuck you got my phone number,

its a piece of pish, all your doing is measuring the gap, recording it, then working out what size you need to sort the gap, then fitting a few days later,

just stuff a rag down the cam tunnel and make sure you have a telescopic magnet thingy ma bob.

ooooo dunno lads lol i dont wanna fk somin up. is it something i can do while the carbs are off?? iv got a lovely view of the tops of my cylinders right now

ps, the carbs are spotless inside, no gunk or varnished feul etc looks like someones cleaned them recently.

Best time to do it with the carbs off..

have a look for viper biker's article on the clearances. Easy..

Ill have a look :)

got my nice new carb parts thismorning will be sticking like for like for now, get her running first, then see if she needs re jetting.

can i ask why peeps tend to run 1 size smaller mains on their front carbs than to the rear ones? whats the resson for this? i do have some 122 jets......so could lean it out slightly by keeping the 124 rear and stick some 122 fronts in.

also got my stainless allen screw sets for my carbs!!! good call DMonkey! fking things round off just looking at them lol

It is believed that because the rear cylinders dont get a supply of moving cooler air like the front and therefore run hotter requiring a little more fuel to run at the same capacity of the front, however i think its imaterial were talking about minior difference when at speed in all fairness. im currently running 115 front 118 rear, i was on 120s all found it stupidly rich, i have since changed the needles removed one washer, but do plant to remove another washer at my next carb offing!

ah right , i see rick. but where the rubber trumpits are ,under the air filter,they all look like theyd get about the same!? lol well, i did wonder anyways so cheers.

it makes me wonder, if your running 115s! and im on 124s! lol seems a huge differance ay. spec if your saying your 120s where rich as hell. is there any ways i can check for say a diff ignition map or somin on my bike? without taking her to a dyno? like a plug n play box i might have etc?? i hate to stick the 124s back in, wrap her back up then having to take her all apart again just to change them to smaller one lol why arnt the jets easier to get to god damit!! i can swop my cagiva jets in 10 mins flat lol

well the thing is with the NC30s and as much as i like Cammos guide really ive found that whats good for one NC30 isnt for another and your best to jet to suit how the bike runs best, ive got to know my carbs VERY well in the passed year theyve been on and off more times than katie prices knickers!

id say ive got mods that would justify bigger jets however this isnt the case,

i took it to DYNO with 118R 120F K&N Filter, Ignitech CDI, Tyga Can, Yamamota rear, bandaged headers etc and it was only putting out 55bhp, admittadly i had a fucked chain and it was missfiring at 6-7k rpm

so that was my base setting to work from, since then

ive dropped to 115F 118R Rick Oliver needles with one shim (going to take the last one out on my next adverture)
ill be chucking in some NC24 Slides too, i also have some newer pilot jets to swap as i buggered mine, and i also have a set of heads to finish and a FULL tyga exhaust to stick on, when done ill be going to dyno again with the 115 and 118s and go for there,

to a degree most of the stuff you do to an NC is guess work unless you can afford to dyno between each change but that would get expensive, so its do a few things test it and then improve etc.

i would say based on what your old girl is i think 124 is rich however your bike has had a lot a messing about, forks swaped, clutch cables etc so id hazard a guess this been fettled with and maybe you have UK specs carbs.
could go either way, ive worked on a few peoples NCs and you never know what to expect carb wise ive seen stock motors with 120s and 3 washers etc and apear to have been messed with without someone truely knowing what there doing.

maybe worth checking the carb model numbers written on the side and compare to the reference on the homepage.

nice little read that mate, i know how annoying jetting can be, im contantly re jetting my 2t from month to month some times, so even though the vfr 4t is a little more forgiving with her jetting , i can see ill soon makeing friends with my carbs too i suppose i should be careful first off and keep it as it is, you never know whos jetted it and for what ressons, then that gives me something to work from. rick o also said it sounded rich as hell......we ll see i guess. however i dont have any washers on any of my needles(the 1 front and 1 rear iv checked so far) so iv got richer mains than most and leaner needles than others. i went with the hiflow filter too to try and lean things out slightly with out any other major changes for now.

ill take a look at that carb guide code thingy mate too. so far peeps have said my carbs look like uk ones, my slides apeare to be metal and as youv already seen, they have more holes than others already in them. so ill check those now.

from just looking over the old girl too id say yours was deffo moded for larger jetting than mine is....unless im missing somin anyways. how can i check to see if my CDI has been swopped around or isnt original? what sort of marking should i be looking for mate? is it as blatient as a name? lol


ps mate, wheres the homepage info? lol