RVFHooligan wrote:The only carb changes are the additional .5mm shim under the needles and 110 main jets, everything else is stock at the moment. It's even appears to be running a little rich, ie: black smoke at idle, strong exhaust smell, and black carbon on the NEW plugs. I am debating changing the shims and jets back to stock while running the standard can.

I don't think that mains and needles will affect this region much, pilot screws might though. Are you using genuine keihin jets?

Looking good!

Stickshift wrote:

RVFHooligan wrote:I don't think that mains and needles will affect this region much, pilot screws might though. Are you using genuine keihin jets?

Looking good!

Yes, genuine Keihin jets. I don't think the mains and needles affect the range much either, but at this point I can remove the carbs from the bike and strip them in less than 15 minutes! So, why not, I'll try the standard settings and if there is no noticable change, I'll put them back the way they were. Then I'll try adjusting the pilot screws. Or maybe I'll try adjusting the pilot screws first. Either way, it's easy work. It's just fine tuning at this point and real happy that I am only a few steps away from a successful restoration. Woo-Hoo! Then I'll mount up the bodywork and call it a day.

CMSMJ1 wrote:
New plugs too? Sheesh...how much are they over there? too much like everywhere else?

I can get a set here for $60 USD. Way too much for them little suckers!

One other thing I have to check is the torque on the head bearings. Either they are a little tight or the steering damper is the problem. I have the steering damper on the softest setting. The front end just feels tight, harder steering. Mid corner the bike seems like it wants to stand up straight and not hold the line. Initial turn in is fine because of the initial input/counter steer, but with neutral input on the bars in the corner it doesn't hold the line. I'll remove the damper first to rule that out, then check the bearings. The R6 shock seems to be working fine at this point. I won't know for sure until I can really ride it hard, but I have plenty of adjustability left to make changes. I'll also take some preload out of the forks, they seem a tad stiff with the race springs.

Er, um, I think I'm done!

I'm not quite sure about the graphics though. I couldn't get the standard graphics so I had to come up with my own. The "RVF" and "Force V-Four" stickers came from Asia and the quality was not that great. The red and black stripes are just decals and can be removed/changed. I don't know, what do you think?

that looks really good! i really quite like your colour scheme too, works well!

thats turned out nice fella, but dare i say that colour scheme would look killer with a black frame

wasnt you considering a black frame at the start

good to see it on the road now, great work

Drunkn Munky wrote:wasnt you considering a black frame at the start

Yes, and everyone said Noooooooooooooooo!

Runs great now, nice and smooth, with very little flat spot or hesitation. Final jetting is as follows pilot screws 1 3/4 turns out (extra 1/8 turn), main jets 110, and .5mm (gold) shim supplied by Rick Oliver. I say this because I purchased .5mm and 1mm shims from Rick and they were gold in color. The stock shims are silver. Although the standard shims are supposed to be .5mm, I swear the .5mm gold shims look slightly thicker, might just be an optical illusion? The 1mm shims were too much and the ran bike rich, especially with the standard exhaust now back in place. Installing the .5mm shims lowered the flat spot from 4000-5000 rpm to 3000-4000 rpm. What really helped the flat spot here though was the extra 1/8 turn on the pilot screws. That was the last thing I did and it almost completely eliminated the flat spot. Only slightly noticable in first gear from a dead stop.

One other thing. The bike starts when cold with NO choke at all, no throttle. Starts up, idles high at 4000 rpm, and then eventually settles down to nice 1500 rpm. With full choke on and no throttle it starts the motor but it then dies within 5-10 seconds and is difficult to start after that and even fouled the plugs a few times. I've removed, checked, and cleaned the choke plungers several times and can't see a problem there. The fuel tap drips a few drips in the off position when off the bike, but that's all. There is a slight fuel smell from the bike up close when sitting in the garage, but no visible leaks or sign of fuel. As mentioned before the bike will actually run with the fuel tap in the off position. No HRC fuel tap mod either. I dunno. I just turn the fuel tap off after every ride and start the bike with no choke. Whatever works!

Last thing is to get a proper title and tag for the bike. Since it's a gray market bike imported from Japan, there is no US title. I actually have the Japanese title,but have to go to the DMV and go the "assembled from parts" route. Shouldn;t be too hard, have you seen all the crap Choppers they give titles to?! Most have no lights, signals, mirrors, horn, fenders, and loud blah-blah exhaust. I have a street legal motorcyle with all the trimmings. Might have to line somebody's pocket with cash, but I'll get it done. Cheers.

RVFHooligan wrote:

Drunkn Munky wrote:wasnt you considering a black frame at the start

Yes, and everyone said Noooooooooooooooo!

still looks ace fella

looks cracking, like the DIY colour scheme.

cheers,
dave