i dont see how it can take too long though...its just taking pipes off putting gaskets and reinstalling pipes..

SO it is not the head gasket..it is the exhaust gasket.

Don;t get it confused - the head gaskets are £40 each..

CMSMJ1 wrote:SO it is not the head gasket..it is the exhaust gasket.

Don;t get it confused - the head gaskets are £40 each..

And it's straightforward to do yourself with the right tools.

ah. nah i tried doing it twice...first time it never sat in properly... second time i snapped a screw in the header... soo im not gonna try again incase i snap another screw...i jsut cant see what im doing properly as the valves are pretty much in the way...its annoying, if the valves and stuff wernt there i would of done it no problem... see i could do it again..but i dont have a small torque wrench to set 8nm...mine only does 40-210nm. and i am NOT gonna make the mistake of tightening those fuckers without a torque wrench again.

*Cam covers are in the way*. Setting it to 8Nm is a piece of piss. Screw the nut on finger tight, put the spanner around it and hold the spanner about 3cm from the nut, and tighten it..

And lol at the cylinder head/exhaust gasket mixup. If you were running the bike without putting the head gasket on correctly, you would have a lot more to worry about that just seeing a mechanic to get it fitted right, if you have run the bike. You need to change the head gasket when you are staring at the face of the pistons.

Haha definitely got the wrong torque wrench for the bike.. Why do you have such a large one? Did you buy it especially for the bike, or find it lying around? I'm investing in a deflecting beam torque wrench in a couple of days that ranges from 5Nm-120Nm, should do nearly all the settings for the bike, apart for the hub nut which is a ridiculously large torque..

Jashdown wrote:*Cam covers are in the way*. Setting it to 80Nm is a piece of piss. Screw the nut on finger tight, put the spanner around it and hold the spanner about 3cm from the nut, and tighten it..

And lol at the cylinder head/exhaust gasket mixup. If you were running the bike without putting the head gasket on correctly, you would have a lot more to worry about that just seeing a mechanic to get it fitted right, if you have run the bike. You need to change the head gasket when you are staring at the face of the pistons.

Haha definitely got the wrong torque wrench for the bike.. Why do you have such a large one? Did you buy it especially for the bike, or find it lying around? I'm investing in a deflecting beam torque wrench in a couple of days that ranges from 5Nm-120Nm, should do nearly all the settings for the bike, apart for the hub nut which is a ridiculously large torque..

Personally not a huge fan of the deflecting beam torque wrenches. hard to get into certain areas.
Not a massive fan of the electronic one's either, although Snap-on do a great one which can do torque plus angle.

xivlia wrote:ah. nah i tried doing it twice...first time it never sat in properly... second time i snapped a screw in the header... soo im not gonna try again incase i snap another screw...i jsut cant see what im doing properly as the valves are pretty much in the way...its annoying, if the valves and stuff wernt there i would of done it no problem... see i could do it again..but i dont have a small torque wrench to set 8nm...mine only does 40-210nm. and i am NOT gonna make the mistake of tightening those fuckers without a torque wrench again.

What do you mean with that mate?

Please refresh my memory - you have a TSR half system. You have te small heavy stubby section of exhaust that is directly bolted to the engine (with 4 bolts)

Is the problem one the small stubby bit or the actual rear section of the exhaust (that only needs 3 bolts)

Fitting the stubby can be a ballache - you are not wrong.

Good luck!

amaechizzle wrote: Personally not a huge fan of the deflecting beam torque wrenches. hard to get into certain areas.
Not a massive fan of the electronic one's either, although Snap-on do a great one which can do torque plus angle.

Deflecting beam are the best as far as I'm concerned. They are pretty accurate and don't need calibration, unless you don't store them in their case. Click type ones need to be stored at a specific setting, otherwise the spring stretches or becomes stiff and it's inaccurate, which means it needs to be re-calibrated. I've never had to get a torque wrench into tight spaces before, if I did need to, I wouldn't bother using it, I would just guess. Obviously for the important bits like the cylinder heads and crank case halves, you need the torque wrench, but that's all pretty easy access. Even the exhaust isn't much of a problem, I'll be fitting the rear header pipes to the rear head when I have the head separated from the crank case, so won't be clearance issues there.

And yeah, someone said about not needing a torque wrench after you become proficient, that's true, but only in some respects. You will ALWAYS need a torque wrench for the cylinder head and crank case, and other internal components, otherwise shit will hit the fan.

Jashdown wrote: And yeah, someone said about not needing a torque wrench after you become proficient, that's true, but only in some respects. You will ALWAYS need a torque wrench for the cylinder head and crank case, and other internal components, otherwise shit will hit the fan.

that was me and yes i totally agree, you do need a torque wrench for critical stuff

Torque wrenches need to be reset to the lowest value... hardly an issue.
I guess my experience is from working on cars, mainly european. So there are plenty of tight spaces. Not saying you can't use the beam on cars, but by now the click torque wrench has become industry standard.