Quite easy to test in situ;

Disconnect the blue/white ?? single wire at the solenoid.
Connect a test lamp or m/meter set on 20V. between the harness end and the battery earth.

When the ignition is on and the starter pressed; the lamp should illuminate/ meter show voltage.
It should go out when starter button released.
The solenoid is only in essence a heavy duty switch that is operated by a light duty one (the starter button)
Response should be at the speed of light; well the speed of electricity in reality ( fast as fook !)

That looks a very cheap solenoid. !

How they work;

Inside is a heavy iron piston and a light spring both in a cylinder which is surrounded by coil windings.
Two heavy contacts are at one end of the casing.
Voltage applied to the coil windings by the operating wire (small single b/w) magnetises them
which pulls the piston upwards until the two main contacts are bridged.
This completes the circuit between the two heavy wires and operates the s/motor.
Once the voltage to the small wire is cut ; the coils are no longer magnetised and the piston is forced back to rest
by the light spring, breaking the main feed..

Knackered old solenoids stick in the open position ( which is why a light tap often works )
Rust inside fubars them.
Eventually the coils fail or weaken.
Sometimes they jam closed and the starter runs on.
An old worn solenoid may not operate in one plane but be fine in another (horizontal/vertical not Avro/Bristol)
A clicking relay usually indicates insufficient voltage to hold the piston closed against the compressed spring

Bill, who was bored on a wet Saturday.

Sounds like the bar switch or the wiring going to it. It could be a corroded connection

Thanks for the replies.

On reflection I think its a wiring issue. I know its not the switch as I have serviced and checked it. I guess it's take off the tank tomorrow and try to sort. Would prefer to be riding it at this stage but there is so much rain it is not an option.

Thinking of buying a brand new bike.

I think about new bikes most of the time but when they're running right they're sweet

So stripped the bike down yesterday to get at all the connectors and diligently cleaned them. Also took the starter button to bits again and cleaned it.

I have Roland's relay on at the moment so I can only assume the new one I bought was f@@@@d and have written them a stern ebay complaint accordingly.

Roland and I went for a run to the pub last night me on the 3TJ and him on the 3MA (Trout at Lechlade) both bikes behaved well.

Riding my bike at night is positively dangerous as I can't see anything due the crap headlights. Does anyone have any recomendations on lamp changes that would at least let me see the front mudguard.

On another issue I only have one working light in the instruments which is in the bottom of left of the speedometer (I am writing about the lights that illuminate the instuments). Looking at the parts manual there should be another 3 lights I think. The fact that none of the other three work I suspect another wiring issue. Any thoughts before I dismantle.

Any of the Yam headlights of the same snap fitt, TRX ones have one H4 which will work. If you want a more involved fix put the headlight unit into a dishwasher or similar hot water, it frees up the glass adhesive then replace the lamps ... I read this on a Bimota forum

As for panel lights its usually the bulbs have blown

Like Boris says; the instrument bulbs will be more than likely done for.

This link may be of use if you are contemplating splitting the headlight.

http://fzr1000.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.p ... ght+melted

The lights are not noted for their brilliance ; often a new bulb has a lot more lumens than a 20 year old one; pity they are so expensive for these imports.

Two further questions

Where do I get panel lights from ?

Can I put a xenon substitute head lamp in, they are about 20% brighter - have them in my car they are better than OK but any new lamp is good compared to one that has aged. Is it an H4 fitting?

The standard 3tj are Yamaha only bulbs, the TRX and other UK lamps are a single H4

Starter relay sorted with new one from Yamaha.
Lesson learned.

Still working out what to do will lights (darks) have some ideas, plenty inclination but no time.