i suppose :D cheers for all the info though! learning by mistakes :\....i shouldnt have about a V style bike as my first project...should of tinkered about with in-lines first haha V's are a pain int he arse when it comes to doing work on it due to the strange angles i have to put my arms into

Buy a torque wrench.

If your snapping bolts your over-tightening them.

My bikes rear exhaust studs and nuts are the original 'rusty as hell' NC30 ones and they dont' snap when I remove or replace them.

Clean the threads with a wire brush first.

Make sure nuts go on properly so you don't cross thread and strip them, do not overtighten them.. if it's really stiff it's either tight enough or cross threaded or theres some kind of dirt in the threads.

There small studs and dont' take much force to snap.

They need fuck all torque on them.. Haynes manual says the header nuts are 8Nm. That is less than the clutch cover bolt, it is not tight at all. If you don't have a torque wrench, then hold the spanner around the neck (up nice and close to the nut) and tighten it. You won't be able to put lots of torque on it that way, so they should get reasonably close to the right setting.

And yeah, it was a pretty silly move putting the old rusty ones back in. Just replace them.

The rear head can come off easy enough, but you will need a new head gasket and they are about 30 quid for you Brits I think.

It's only the beginning of mechanical problems, you are sure to encounter many more, just learn from it and move on. It's not a big deal, it happens to everyone some time or another.

Mate while you go about re-replacing your studs, use nickel based antiseize. It is made specifically for high temp applications.

I have seen a fair few machines come into work which have been assembled used copper anti seize, where the lubricating elements of the anti seize has boiled out and just left a film of copper, effectively casting the studs/bolts into place.

I like to use this.

MIG!

If there's enought thread sticking out i'd mig a small (1" sq maybe) bit of steel to it and you'll just unscrew it with a pair of pliers in all probability
Drilling it out would be a last resort and you need a good eye and setady hand, as well as good access.

yeah im just gonna get my mate to come and weld that bitch up. gonna use brand new studs...brand new nuts. and some sort of high temp resistant grease to stop it form seizing on me again.

xivlia wrote:yeah im just gonna get my mate to come and weld that bitch up. gonna use brand new studs...brand new nuts. and some sort of high temp resistant grease to stop it form seizing on me again.

It wasn't siezed if you got it out, you were putting it back togther no?

You overtightened it and broke it.

New ones break just as easily as old ones so do not over tighten it.

Get a torque wrench, I wouldn't do a job on my bike without one!

ok me and my friend removed the broken studs now. and i have bought 8 new studs and 8 new nuts. and will put them on tomorrow!! one thing....i cant seem to connect the front two exhaust downpipes to the 2 into 1 joiner..it wont go in all the way, like it gets stuck at one point and comes off easily.... i wanna just use some aggressive force on them so they go in all the way and tight.. but im scared incase they get dented or something..