right ive ditched the old carbs for anouther set from the breakers, no smells of fuel etc no pulls even better than before but cold starting is only mildly improved?

the only things i havent done now are valve clearances, only slightly ticky and new plugs, the ones in there looked good and new when checked about 3weeks ago but could they have been messed up by dodgy carbs??

when you start it now,on full choke, goes up to 3k revs for around 2sec then drops and ticks over at 1k.

strange thing is if you take the freeplay out of the throttle twist grip thn it revs back up to 3k and then if you reduce choke the revs drop accordingly as it should????

its driving me round the bend!!!

someone put me ou of my misery please!

dave

is there anyone local who can help or recommend someone local to suffolk?

You do have the airbox connected back up to the tank etc? It wont run right without it.

It sounds like you have air-leak problems somewhere.

I'll make you a video later of my bike starting up, you can compare.

Neosophist wrote:You do have the airbox connected back up to the tank etc? It wont run right without it.

It sounds like you have air-leak problems somewhere.

I'll make you a video later of my bike starting up, you can compare.

its connected, pipe from tank to t-piece on the side of the airbox, which goes up to cup on top of box and also down to elsewhere on the bike? sound right?

ive tried spraying all round carb rubbers with wd and revs dont alter as if its drawing it in. vid would be handy thanks wat would i need to do one of mine,what file type and how do i get it on here then you could see what im on about?

cheers dave

Neosophist i think i came across a vid you made on youtube, if your username is the same? my bike doesnt start anything like that cold and it does have a lumpy tick over aswell.carbs are balanced so could plugs be an issue? and is there any other checks i can do for airleaks?

cheers dave

Neosophist is there any other way of checking for air leaks?

also changed plugs last night todiscover that the bike had cr8ehvx9 plugs in instead if cr8eh9?

the bike tick over smoother now and runs hotter, temp gauge actually went over a 1/4!!!

thing is now starting prob remains but is slightly different as it now smeel of petrol when started with choke, hoped changing the plugs was goin to be a cure.

it wont fire unless i touch the throttle? tick over still needs to be set high too?

someone must have an answer?

cheers dave

It's really hard to diagnose a bike without seeing it :) It could be something completely obvious that I havn't thought about.

The proper plugs are C8EH9's (No R) although i'm not sure what putting resistor plugs in would do. You can also use ND U24FE9's although I can never seem to find them in this country.

My temperature gauge barely moves from just in the temperature range off cold unless im sitting in traffic after a long ride... motorway journeys it's only just at 1/4 too, these bikes run much cooler than the NC30.

The plugs you mention should be alright, there identical heat range / etc to standard plugs except their Fine wire palladium and have a slightly different gap setting (probably higher quality plugs then stock)

I'd say someones buggard about with the mixutre / carbs. My advice is to take it to a dyno who'll set up the mixture settings and everything for you. Unless you have at bare minimum a colourtune plug and ideally and exhuast gas anayliser too your gonna struggle to get optimum performance at home.

What did you balance the carbs with?

If it's not running with choke it's too rich, if you had an air leak it'd make it too lean. turn your pilot screws in 1/4 of a turn at a time and see how that affects starting.

Neosophist wrote:It's really hard to diagnose a bike without seeing it :) It could be something completely obvious that I havn't thought about.

The proper plugs are C8EH9's (No R) although i'm not sure what putting resistor plugs in would do. You can also use ND U24FE9's although I can never seem to find them in this country.

My temperature gauge barely moves from just in the temperature range off cold unless im sitting in traffic after a long ride... motorway journeys it's only just at 1/4 too, these bikes run much cooler than the NC30.

The plugs you mention should be alright, there identical heat range / etc to standard plugs except their Fine wire palladium and have a slightly different gap setting (probably higher quality plugs then stock)

I'd say someones buggard about with the mixutre / carbs. My advice is to take it to a dyno who'll set up the mixture settings and everything for you. Unless you have at bare minimum a colourtune plug and ideally and exhuast gas anayliser too your gonna struggle to get optimum performance at home.

What did you balance the carbs with?

If it's not running with choke it's too rich, if you had an air leak it'd make it too lean. turn your pilot screws in 1/4 of a turn at a time and see how that affects starting.

i understand that, im sorry for keep posting even though people seem as stuck as i am lol! i used a carbtune to balance them up and there were almost perfect.

i have made progress

ive got an airleak i will eat my hat for saying it didnt!!!! sorry for saying wasnt but didnt know the spray wasnt flammable enough

id been spraying it with WD40 type stuff that hadnt picked it up but carb cleaner did! the leak i found was on rear right carb cylinder 3 i think and plug was white at tick over, did up the clips and it started a peach even with choke, then after a ride probs back again, got annoyed on the ride and hammered it abit and when stopped the tick over was really high 2700rpm turned it down to 1500 and tick over ok but lumpy. when to start it this morn and it was worse than before until iturn tick over back up then stopped after going down a 60 and was at 4k??? checked for a air leak again when got to work this morn and now its front left??? got a flat spot at 10k again aswell and its holding revs when you blip it take it that s the leak.

ive got new rubbers carbs look seated correctly and clips wont go any tighter??

where else could it be or what am i missing???

i had to wap carb top plate over when fitted different carbs but the screws are tight and cant see no gaps as if its not seated, its on all the dowels, one was missing though?

im gonna flog it soon but really dont want to cos i spent so much and i love riding it! when im not startin it lol!

i took the carbs off last night and to check seating and noticed my new inlet rubbers have split inside around the sealing grove, not all the way through but would this cause a leak as it would stop them sealing properly?

also when messing about i noticed that bike not running on cylinder 3 all the time took plug out, got a spart and new plug in there but its running lean, plugs grey/white. would this be the air leak causing this?

cheers dave

Extra air will lean out the mixture.

Are all the earths ok and clean?