Gazz can you post a pic of the c-nut with the top yoke in place so Jaicen can compare? :)

Sounds like a plan, I think it would help certainly.
Here's a pic of mine that I bluetoothed from my phone! Check me out wid da teknology!

Ye you just loosen off the top fork pinch bolts, loosen the top yoke nut then adjust the c-nut, lock it all down with the top yoke nut at about 45 lb-ft and then lock the fork pinch bolts up to about 35 lb-ft, jods a gudden!

I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Gazz

By pinch bolts, do you mean the two allen bolts either side of the yoke??
So I loose them off, slack off the big chrome nut, and then tighten everything up starting with the C-nut? Sorry if I seem a bit stupid, but I want to make sure I get things right!

On the subject of the forks, how far should they poke through the yokes at the top? Right now they're more or less flush at the top, but I was thinking that I could drop the forks through maybe half an inch or so? I'm a little vertically challenged, so any reduction in height is welcome!

Bod on m8, start at the allen bolts work in then back out.
The forks are flush with the yoke as standard but you can drop them as far as you like, you will quicken the head angle as you drop and this will quicken the steering up which can cause the bike to get unstable and youll end up with grounding problems, but drop it a few mm at a time and try it and see.

Brilliant, cheers! I had a look to see how much I could drop the forks through, and it looks like I could drop it half an inch without any issues without the front wheel hitting the fairing/frame/etc... I think turn in could stand to be a little quicker.
In addition to this, i'd still like to tweak the rear shocker. The pre-load adjuster is wound to about half way in, but I think i'm going to wind that back a bit, and increase the damping. I'm looking for a little more travel to deal with Sheffield roads. As I say, I don't weigh a great deal, so I think that the extra pre-load is unnecessary, even if it does jack up the rear a little.

Had a think today at work ( he thinks! your thinking) beats work, is the rear shocker got a ride height ajuster or is the mount ajustable cuz you may be adle to lower the rear a little also.

As far as I can see, the ride height doesn't seem to be adjustable (pre-load excepted, but that's not quite the same).
I suspect it may be possible to fit a spacer to the lower mount to drop the shock, but that would likely lead to bottoming out issues, particularly if i'm carrying a pillion.
I think the front needs to be dropped more than the rear really so I can get a little more weight over the front. If I'm tucked in, the front end tends to go light (well, duh..), though I think that I need to get my bearings and everything sorted before making any changes.

Oh, while I think about it, apparently my neighbour has got not only a pair of axle stands but also an engine crane, so that should make light work of fixing my front end! Just mentioned it in passing as I was polishing my machine this morning

I think i'm going to replace my front pads at the same time, if I can get them out of the calipers. Apparently the pin that holds them in is also a screw, threaded on the outside edge, but seemingly impossibly tight, so it might all have to come off. My local shop has EBC HH pads for £35 a set (2xpair), is that reasonable?

Here's a pic of mine.