3EN2 17inch Rearwheel Mod - Help.

[uniquefzrfreak]

I've just put a scissor jack and two blocks of wood between the swing arms and wound them out to 25.5mm. I'm going to leave it like that for a couple of weeks and then remove the jack and see if I've gained any space to make fitting easier.

Failing that, I'm going to rig up a way of using the scissor jack and some wood to catch the corners of the ends of the arms while I'm actually fitting the bits to get them in.

Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be able to report that it's all fitted using brut force! - either that or one of the weld seams will have probably cracked

[Evilchicken0]

Can't you just use a 3tj arm and mill it to fit the frame.

[Marb]

23cm exactly, or 22,8cm. There is 2mm of give in my swing arm. And i have had a wheel in my swinger untill about a two weeks ago, so i doubt its the cold. But what was your mates setup? Did he mill down the caliper hanger?

Also the 3TJ swinger will slot into the 3EN2 frame, that's not the problem, but the 3TJ swinger is wider than the 3EN2 swinger and hits the rearsets. So you'll have to move the rearsets out by abot a centimeter.

Also, you still have the chainalignment problem. But that could possibly be solved with milling down the sprocket carrier down a little more.

[uniquefzrfreak]

23cm 100% exactly on both arms. His setup didn't involve any grinding down of the caliper at all and is exactly the same as what we are trying to do.

I was able to take all my bits and fit them to his swingarm with no problem at all.

I've spoken to a few people since then and I'm told that it's normal to have various minor difference in swingarms and other bits, purely due to the manufacturing process of ally parts after the welded seams cool.

I take the points on board about room temp affecting the clearance as I doubt it would cause 3mm of diff.

Apparently, as long as it's 'over size' after manufacturing it's not an issue for the factory, as tightening bolts etc reduces any over measurement when parts are fitted.

I know I could fit a 3TJ arm, but while I'm so close, I'd like to try and make this final bit work. I'm sticking with the jack for a couple of weeks to see if I can slightly push the arm struts beyond their hard memory limit to gain a mill or two. Otherwise, I'll use the jack while fitting - some how!

You can't trim the caliper bracket, but you would have to split the difference and take the same amount off the left side to keep alignment and if you do that, you'll put the sprocket to close to the inside of the arm - which already requires the sprocket nut studs to be cut down to clear.

Apologies to Marb and anyone else who's followed my posted measurements and ended up in the same situation, but I'm sure the jack idea will solve the issue and if anyone puts a better plan into practice, please post full details so we and others can do it in a more straightforward way.

I'm away over Christmas, but I'll post in the first few days of Jan with the results of the jack plan. I may get to the odd internet cafe in-between, so hopefully I can catch up on any further info.

[Taggyd]

get a couple of mates and some straps, i can flex the swinger just by pulling it apart by hand, a couple of mates pulling one on each side should give you enough movement and mean you dont need a jack in the way! second thoughts, make it three mates so youve got one supporting the bike! :D
just how i think id do it if i had three mates! :D

[Marb]

No worries buddy. Im gonna mess about with the setup some more today. See what i can figure out with my swinger

If i can solve it by taking a little off off the caliper hanger then i think that that is the way i'll go.

[Evilchicken0]

23cm exactly, or 22,8cm. There is 2mm of give in my swing arm. And i have had a wheel in my swinger untill about a two weeks ago, so i doubt its the cold. But what was your mates setup? Did he mill down the caliper hanger?

Also the 3TJ swinger will slot into the 3EN2 frame, that's not the problem, but the 3TJ swinger is wider than the 3EN2 swinger and hits the rearsets. So you'll have to move the rearsets out by abot a centimeter.

Also, you still have the chainalignment problem. But that could possibly be solved with milling down the sprocket carrier down a little more.

Or offsetting the front sproket

[uniquefzrfreak]

Right then, progress (ish).

I've removed the sissor jack from between the arms (after a week) and they sprang right back to the original size. I was amazed as I'd wound the arms out a total of about 5mm. I didn't want to wind them out any more in case I cracked a weld seam or something.

So I dug a few bits of crap out some tins and built this tool:

http://www.derbyshirebikers.co.uk/forum ... noTool.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Basically, I measured the gap between the arms, cut a length of threaded bar. Then I measured the width of one bit of wood and cut that much off the threaded bar.

Then I drilled a hole roughly half way through each bit of wood using a metal drill bit to get a flatish bottom in the holes. The other bits are fairly obvious in the picture. A couple of big washers a threaded oblong metal nut on one side and a normal nut on the other.

I put the wheel in without the spacers. Put the tool between the spokes, then used a wrench to turn the nut until the arms spread enough to drop the spacers in.

See fitted wheel pictures here:

http://www.derbyshirebikers.co.uk/forum ... Jw-LHS.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.derbyshirebikers.co.uk/forum ... Jw-RHS.JPG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The wheel turns freely and is straight etc.

The main problem I had, was that the tool had a tendency to move backwards as it was tightened due to the flat wood blocks and the angled inner arms. The result is that the wheel is fitted well, but to the limit of the chain adjuster slots.

I'm going to try and improve the tool or look at shaving half a mill off the left and right spacer to make the job easier for the tool to gain enough clearance.

I hope this helps.

[Marb]

So this is with the spacers sizes that you posted a coupla pages ago? That is good news!

Just two questions, have you mounted the rear caliper yet? Looks like that rear brakedisk is touching the hanger, or does it just look like that on the pics?

How is the chain-alignment?

Good job, looks like im gonna have to fix myself a tool like that too.

[uniquefzrfreak]

This is with the origional spacers I posted a few pages ago. Nothing has changed in terms of the components since the first posts.

The rear caliper isn't mounted yet. I'll do that tomorrow night and post the results. The brakedisk isn't touch the hanger and it all spins freely. So yes, it's just the picture.

I don't have a chain, so I'm assuming the alignment is spot on. I'm going to either order a chain in the next week or preferably, try and get a second hand one to mock up with until I'm ready for final fitment. It looks very good from a pure eyesight perspective. I might use a laser light (only about a quid from town) taped to a miniature spirit level, to get a better idea.

I'd try and shape the edges of the wooden block if you build a tool to match the angle of the inner swing arm. It's currently fitted with the chain adjusters at full stretch, so I'm going to try and make a MKII tool to spread the arms again and let me move the wheel further forward more easily.