Cutting Out
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Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
Please can you post items for sale or wanted in the correct For Sale section. Items / bikes for sale here will be removed without warning. Reasons for this are in the FAQ. Thanks
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Evilchicken0
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 5374
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:59 pm
- Bike owned: Bimota SB6 Yamaha FZR 3TJ x2
- Location: Lundin Taan
Re: Cutting Out
An ignition cut out is just a loop though so it doesn't matter which way it connects ( +,+ or +,-) it still works.
Bimota electrics are usually ok. My SB6 wires change colour when they go into the loom which is a pain but it all works. It really only old italian electrics that are a problem
Bimota electrics are usually ok. My SB6 wires change colour when they go into the loom which is a pain but it all works. It really only old italian electrics that are a problem
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LKey
- NWAA Supporter
- Posts: 21
- Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2013 12:53 am
Re: Cutting Out
Thanks again for all your input.
She's running again at least kind of.
I took the carbs apart (again) and installed all new gaskets and o-rings from Litetek, excellent stuff
Put everything together again, started her up, rode her up and down the driveway no more stalling.
I was quite happy even as I don't have any explanation for the previous problem.
Unfortunately she's running anything but fine.
The engine revs fine up to 6000 revs, above that it will only rev up with about 1/3 of throttle.
When you go full throttle it will be ok up to about 6000 from there on it will hardly accelerate any further ( it's a bit like running against a rubber wall). Winding back to not more than 1/3 throttle helps the engine will rev up to 14000
I've checked so far
-fuel pump
-tank vent
-plugs
-5 needle positions
-mixture screw from 1 1/2 to 4 out
-'Best' result with screw 3 1/2 out and needle in middle position but far running properly
Being a Bimota it does not have a Yamaha engine number but there is 1WG stamped on the crank case
Pilot jet is 35 main is 52.5
Air filter is a K&N MG 01
It reved up easily before but stalled when stopping
Now it doesn't stall anymore but doesn't rev properly
Can anyone help?
Thank you
She's running again at least kind of.
I took the carbs apart (again) and installed all new gaskets and o-rings from Litetek, excellent stuff
Put everything together again, started her up, rode her up and down the driveway no more stalling.
I was quite happy even as I don't have any explanation for the previous problem.
Unfortunately she's running anything but fine.
The engine revs fine up to 6000 revs, above that it will only rev up with about 1/3 of throttle.
When you go full throttle it will be ok up to about 6000 from there on it will hardly accelerate any further ( it's a bit like running against a rubber wall). Winding back to not more than 1/3 throttle helps the engine will rev up to 14000
I've checked so far
-fuel pump
-tank vent
-plugs
-5 needle positions
-mixture screw from 1 1/2 to 4 out
-'Best' result with screw 3 1/2 out and needle in middle position but far running properly
Being a Bimota it does not have a Yamaha engine number but there is 1WG stamped on the crank case
Pilot jet is 35 main is 52.5
Air filter is a K&N MG 01
It reved up easily before but stalled when stopping
Now it doesn't stall anymore but doesn't rev properly
Can anyone help?
Thank you
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Evilchicken0
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 5374
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 8:59 pm
- Bike owned: Bimota SB6 Yamaha FZR 3TJ x2
- Location: Lundin Taan
Re: Cutting Out
All FZR400 have 1WG as an engine number, your bike should use the 2TK engine with an exup.
Make sure the exup is opening properly - they can strangle the engine if not.
It does sounds like the main jets or possibly a pin hole in a diaphram. I think the 2TK ran smoothbore carbs.
Take it to a dyno they can analyse it a lot better
Make sure the exup is opening properly - they can strangle the engine if not.
It does sounds like the main jets or possibly a pin hole in a diaphram. I think the 2TK ran smoothbore carbs.
Take it to a dyno they can analyse it a lot better
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willandrip
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 983
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2011 8:33 am
- Bike owned: Far, far too many now
- Location: North Tyneside Tyne and Wear
Re: Cutting Out
Did you remove any jets at the last rebuild ?
Mixing up the starter and the main jet positions gives these symptoms.
Main jet is more like 92.5 outers/90 inners and 52.5 starters.
Mixing up the starter and the main jet positions gives these symptoms.
Main jet is more like 92.5 outers/90 inners and 52.5 starters.
A red box doth not a Snap On make.
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kirbster
- Settled in member
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Fri Nov 30, 2012 12:46 am
- Bike owned: 1988 FZR400U CDN Model
Re: Cutting Out
35 pilots and 52.5 mains? This just sounds totally wrong.
Do the carbs have metal diaphragm caps or plastic ones? Just trying to figure out which carbs you have.
My 1WG Genesis (no exup) everything stock:
Pilots: 15
Mains: 87.5
3.5 turns out on mixture screws.
What I am running now:
Pilots : 17.5
Mains: 87.5
3.5 turns out on mixture screws.
Float height 12mm.
Pulls cleanly throughout rev range with a bit of a dip in the power delivery between 6-7K rpm.
Have you inspected the Diaphragms? pinching these will kill them quick. Also, are they still flexible or have they hardened up at all?
Do the carbs have metal diaphragm caps or plastic ones? Just trying to figure out which carbs you have.
My 1WG Genesis (no exup) everything stock:
Pilots: 15
Mains: 87.5
3.5 turns out on mixture screws.
What I am running now:
Pilots : 17.5
Mains: 87.5
3.5 turns out on mixture screws.
Float height 12mm.
Pulls cleanly throughout rev range with a bit of a dip in the power delivery between 6-7K rpm.
Have you inspected the Diaphragms? pinching these will kill them quick. Also, are they still flexible or have they hardened up at all?